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Everything posted by Emporium
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Have you checked to see that it is not your provider ? Was it working before ? I was using VOD and TV series earlier, and they seemed to work for me and my provider.
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@Buzzed- FYI, should be fixed in the latest update. I don't have servers that have that many channels, but you can certainly try it out.
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Live wont start up after video freeze
Emporium replied to Jada's topic in XR4500 / XRS4500 / XRS4500 MAX
I had created a small test M3U playlist with 6 channels in it (public streams), for testing subtitles. But in your case, since you say Nothing works, it is worth trying to see if these streams work. On your box, go to menu, settings, server settings, M3U and add an M3U playlist. You can call it "subtest" and use the the url I provided you (in PM) (it is case sensitive). If it works and you connect, you will see a list of 6 channels (4 english and 2 french). I tested them on my 4500 using the latest update 5.0.788. Both players (primary and backup) seem to work. But Primary a little better than the backup one (it's just cleaner the way it shows subtitles), but they both work. Let me know if this works. I know MANY servers have been having issues, due to ISP blocks imposed during the world cup games. Some are worse hit than others. At least with this M3U list, we will know if the box is able to stream. If this works, then it may be an ISP issue. I've had many customers complain with some services. So far in some cases the only option has been to use a VPN service to bypass ISP restrictions. -
FYI: If you prefer a "manual" with a summary of the programming and pairing instructions, I have attached a PDF I threw together, which is based on the BT-200. Pretty sure the process is the same. BT-250 Remote.pdf
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The only buttons that are programmable on this remote are the 4 buttons at the top (TV Power, Input selection, VOL+, and VOL-). And in reality, they are just "learning buttons", so you need your original remote to program them. Pretty sure the instructions here, can be used. Instructions are mostly for the BT100, but you can repeat the same instructions to program the VOL+ and VOL- buttons. But keep in mind that these buttons are for IR only, so you will need to point to your TV (like with your original remote - you will not suddenly have bluetooth features on your TV).
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So you say that the unit can't stream well over network your bluray collection (which in my opinion tells me there is something wrong with your network setup). I stream 25GB and 30GB files without issue from my Synology NAS (U5 and my Synology have Gigabit Link - and I'm wired). But if the HDD is connected to the U5, how is anything going to appear on it ? You want to use the HDD (assuming it is shareable) as a download location for Jellyfin ? Or would you be manually transferring stuff to it from your windows PC ? If you will be doing it manually, you can initiate the transfer from the buzz box, using something like solidexplorer which has access to windows shares. And the split screen view also makes it very easy to transfer files from a network share, to a local drive. Now I have seen cases where Jellyfin and even Plex are really dumb with some media played over network. I run both Plex and Jellyfin servers in parallel on my synology NAS, and I find in some cases, Plex client will play funny with some media, and other times Jellyfin client will (neither one or the other is perfect). In those cases, I just launch solidexplorer on my buzz, browse to my media directory on my NAS, and will click and launch the media either through VLC or MX Player, and they play perfectly fine without the plex/jellyfin overhead. And I hate transcoding, so that is not even something I would consider. Bottom line, no, the buzz boxes do NOT have an SMB server included, since that was never the intention. If you want to experiment with 3rd party SMB servers, you are welcome to do so obviously. Not sure however if they need any special kernel modules included (like on some linux distributions). I have tried many different android boxes and other than the shield, I have not seen any of them that offer that option.
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Out of the box, NO it will not share the drive to the network. The Buzz box acts as a host, and can access local and network drives, but will not share it's drive. In order for any android box to share any of its drives/directories, you need to find and use some 3rd party Samba sever. I have not tested it on any buzz box. Either way, not sure it would be of much use (other than to transfer files to it as a media library). For accessing the files (like VOD/PVR recordings) it would be close to useless since the naming convention used for the files has no human meaningful pattern. The filenames are "crtyptic" to the average user and pretty sure all the metadata (which matches up files with EPG or other info), is stored in some other xml or other file elsewhere on the device.
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I'm assuming you already tried to clear the BuzzTV 5 cache ?
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Like other asked, what Software version are you running ? I just tried it on both of my xrs4900 (running 5.0.788) and worked fine. I have one "button record enabled", and when I press the red button, I get a quick message at the bottom about the stream, then the info panel (channel info) appears, you see the REC icon in the info bar, and then when the info bar disappears (2 or 3 seconds later), the red REC icon on top right appears.
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Are you using CEC ? If so, as a test, try disabling CEC. Settings->Device Preferences->Display and Sound->HDMI CEC And turn off both options. This will avoid the TV from forcing a shutdown on the HD5 itself, when the TV is turned off. You can test it by turning off the TV, and noticing if the HD5 remains on. If this works, then you should be able to turn off the HD5 (using the remote), and it should record as scheduled. Just doing this to ensure that it is not the TV/CEC that is interfering with the box from waking up/recording.
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Basically, from LiveTV, press the menu button and there is a software version at the bottom, v4.0.xxx or v5.0.xxx. Provide the specific version your box is running.
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Are you really running short of USB ports ? Most boxes (few exceptions) have at least 2 or 3 ports. And these dongles don't need to occupy a USB3 port. With these dongles, you obviously don't need line of site. I have had a MX3 clone remote (which looks pretty much the same as these - and same layout), for nearly 5 or 6 years now, and they work quite well. I never tried the MIC function (since I hate those features anyhow), but the rest has worked great..
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No Bluetooth. The ARQ series uses a USB key (like many wireless mice/keyboards). Works pretty well., and no need for pairing. Remotes are very subjective. And each remote has it's pros and cons.
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Absolutely. I was just pointing out the differences in how the players react.
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The Primary player will only show you the actual number of CC choices that are encoded in the stream. So if it has only 2 options, then you will see 2 choices. The Backup player however seems to always show 4 choices as soon as CC is available. And backup player, you don't see the description of the CC stream. Primary player will show you "English", "French", etc.. if multiple CC options are available.
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Would help if you specify what box, and what version of Buzz you are using (hit the Menu button, and it should be listed at the bottom of the menu on the left).
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I just created a small test M3U playlist with 6 channels in it (public streams), which I know transmit with subtitles. On your box, go to menu, settings, server settings, M3U and add an M3U playlist. You can call it "subtest"(or whatever you want) and use the url I sent you in direct message (the url is case sensitive). If it works and you connect, you will see a list of 6 channels (4 english and 2 french). I tested them on my xrs4500 using the latest update 5.0.788 and if I enable subtitles on each channel, I see subtitles as expected. I do need to enable subtitles on each channel (no global settings as far as know, but I could be wrong). Both players (primary and backup) seem to work. But Primary is a little better than the backup one (it's just cleaner the way it shows them), but they both work. I also tested them on my HD5 and they work fine also. Try it and let us know.
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They are translucent on black, in order to allow the backlight through easier. If they make them solid white (like the older remotes), then you need a more powerful backlight, which sucks batteries like crazy. I keep the backlight off, exactly for that reason. I would have liked solid white also (personal taste), but also keep in mind, being translucent also means the solid white, won't eventually wear off, like I've seen on some cheaper remotes and eventually you have just a bunch of black buttons
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From LiveTV, hit the Menu button -> Settings ->Configuration And on the top you will see Video Player - LiveTV and it is set to either Primary or Backup. Whatever you have now, select the other one.
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You can probably just go to the web site, click the download link on the top, download the APK, put it on a USB stick and then install it on the box. Or open browser on the box, and go to it directly. https://en.aptoide.com/
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The manual for the remote can be had here: https://buzztv.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/BT400-300_manual_WEB_v6_Compress.pdf To re-pair the remote, you can go into "Settings" -> "Remotes and accessories". If you see your remote in there, click on it and then select "unpair". Then click on "add accessory, and then put your remote into pairing mode (from the manual: Simultaneously press and hold the OK button and the HOME button for 4 seconds until it [red LED] starts blinking). This should bring up the remote in the list of devices, you can select it and it should pair. If you did a factory reset of the device, it should in theory have asked you to pair/find the remote during initial setup.
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You can never satisfy everyone with remotes. If you make them big, people complain they are huge and awkward. Make them too small, people complain they are too tiny. My personal preference is the size of the BT100/200/250 remotes, but that is personal taste. The BT300/400 are a change, but not that bad. I have pretty big hands, and have no issue with the buttons. Even in the dark, you can easily feel your way around the remote, with the buttons having just enough of a bump to be able to feel your way around and distinguish the buttons. For the number pad, it is is nice that the "5" key has a little texturing, so you can orient yourself with that middle key. For the Dpad, it is about the same size (about 25mm). Maybe the BT300/400 is about 1mm smaller, but that may just be an illusion since it is white vs black (on the older remotes). The OK button on the older remotes is convex out, but the newer ones are concave in. Something that does take getting used to. Now the buttons around the dpad, are a little more spread out vertically on the newer remotes (BT300/400), but the buttons are further apart horizontally on the older remotes. You can always also choose to get something like an ARQ-100 remote. Or soon to be available ARQ 200 series https://buzztv.com/site/arq-200-series/ Some people used to swear by their Harmony remotes, but personally have never liked them.
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Picture from channels on Antenna are clear: So the TV is not an issue. Netflix, Prime, Apple and Disney, Youtube are all very clear: So the box is not an issue Only thing left is the Source/Server that you are using for your TV channels that are the source if the issue. So If you are using an IPTV provider, then it is time to find someone new to get your service from since they are probably over compressing the streams and image quality is suffering beyond what you want. If you are using some free app (Redbox, LiveNetTV, or even Plex) to get your TV channels, then there is not much you can do, since you are the mercy of their stream sources. Many of the true free IPTV lists that are floating around on github, etc.. are far from 1080p. Many are even 480p (some even 360p). You try to scale 360p, 480p, 420p or even 1080p to 4k, you will NOT get anything SUPER clear.
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Have you tried power cycling your router (not reset - just unplug power and plug it in again) ? I know you said other devices have no issue, but sometimes there are chipset incompatibilities so just trying to see if it may not like the WIFI chipset used in your router. You are not by any chance too close to the router (yes that is a thing) ?
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Are you using suspend, or shutdown as powerkey definition. I know it is quicker when using suspend, but issues compound over time if you use suspend. Try using shutdown instead and see if it persists.