Emporium

Doesn't hurt to try it I'm at the office, so don't have a box near me. I typically have an small 32GB stick installed in all my boxes, since I don't like the wear and tear on the internal memory for stuff like this. If the USB storage wears out from too many read/write cycles, I can easily replace it. If the onboard memory wears out, then the box is dead.

Do the channels you are referring to have Catch-up ? If so, then you may need to ensure you enable the "Force TS on USB" option, to ensure it doesn't try to use the "server" catchup feature for that.

Read the italic quoted section of my post, which is a link directly from Samsung. Does you receiver have HDMI in ? Can you go from box, to Receiver direct HDMI, and then from Receiver out to TV ? That way the receiver handles all decoding.

And "assuming" your 4k TV is capable of decoding Dolby Audio 5.1, what and how are you passing this to, to get 5.1 ? Optical afterwards from TV to a sound bar/receiver ? And on your TV, what is your HDMI Audio input format set to ? PCM or BitStream ? If it is PCM, it assumes that the signal is already processed, and it will just output it from the TV speakers. If it is set to Bitstream, the TV will try to process it. There are many variables, and they all need to match in order to get what you are looking for. Typically people looking for Dolby multichannel Audio plug the box direct into a receiver which will handle that and then pass the video signal to the TV. If you are doing it the opposite way around, there are many restrictions. Even Samsung themselves warn about that. "Note: Even though HDMI is capable of carrying a 5.1 audio signal, HDCP (High Bandwidth Digital Content Protection) keeps the TV from passing decoded 5.1 audio content from the HDMI input to the optical output. Because of this, 5.1 audio output from optical is not available when using the HDMI input." Source: https://www.samsung.com/us/support/troubleshooting/TSG01109021/ Just saying...

Then the issue is probably at the server/source side. Not much you can do, short of asking your provider to look into it. I just checked my provider and checked both the FHD, low bitrate feed, and one other and they are all fine.

Not as far as I know. The built in database is limited to some of the major TV manufacturer IR codes, as list in the manual (link a few posts up). You can do a scan if you want to see if something is compatible. Now, if things communicate via CEC (for volume and other minor options), that may be a YMMV on what it can or cannot control. But that would not be via any IR and would not really require any programming of remote.

Biggest question is, ARE YOU using the 12V power supply that came with the U5, or are you using an existing 5V power supply that most other Buzz units typically use ? I know many people assume that the power supplies are the same, but they are not. Most buzz boxes use 5V, with the exception being the 4900 and and U5 which have HDDs, hence the 12V power supplies. The 5V power supply will power the box, but will have issues with the drive.

OK.. So the issue is probably specific to a certain type of panel, and fix will be in a future "public" update for all. Putting box on beta got you the "pre-release" of the fix

For future reference, was it some procedural issue ? Some local fix he sent you ? Or something you are not at liberty to share ?

I did have a friend who had similar issues, and it turned out it was his power supply. It worked fine for the most part, but I guess over time it could not deliver enough current. Gave him a spare 5V, 2A power supply I had lying around and it never happened again.

In my case, I use Solid Explorer to transfer all files (since it also has network support, and I usually transfer straight to my NAS). But many people also prefer others like ES File explorer, or others. Hey many of the new 5 Series of Buzz boxes (maybe all), recently "Added Network sharing option which makes your internal device storage visible to other devices and computers on your home network" So you'd be able to browse the directories directly from your home PC.

Does he by any chance have any special characters in his password ? like an "!" or a "\" ?

Pin reset probably overkill. Maybe try just an app reset for BuzzTV 5 app. MAC or XC API ? If it is a MAC sub, maybe do a mac reset on the server.

Is the StreamPro app on the G3 similar to the original StreamPro (ie: custom version of STBEmu) ? Would love to have a small patch (I'm sure it wouldn't be much) to get rid of the "audio track" of the initial boot animation on the original Streampro). Main reason I stopped using it, was because if I forgot to turn TV volume down at night, before powering it on, I would wake everyone up Oops.. Otherwise, pretty nice budget box, that does what it was intended to do, quite well.

Suspend should be used with caution. Machine eventually needs a proper reboot to ensure all drivers load up cleanly. Any tiny memory leak will just get compounded if you just keep using suspend all the time. For the extra minute it takes, all my boxes are set for "shutdown". And the reason I asked to switch players, is because some services work better with one player, and others are better with the other. And many services sometimes tend to experiment with encodings, and what was working yesterday, may suddenly not be today. If you are using WIFI and you can (at least temporarily) try with a wired connection, it can identify if it is a WIFI issue.

Just a hint, when you post about an error, you should give a little more info. Like what do you do do get this error ? Was it working before and it just started, or is it a new installation and first time trying ? Does it happen right at boot ? Does it happen when you bring up LiveTV ? When you try to play VOD ? Or some 3rd party app ? Are you sure it is not the service having issues (have you tried on another box, or using another app - like STBEmu or IPTV smarters, just to test) ? Explain what you have tried until now ? Have you tried changing Video players (from LiveTV, Menu, Settings, Configuration, and they are on top) ? If available, in the same menu on the bottom, you may have a stream type (HLS/ M3U/TS), have you tried changing ?

If it is on your U5, then why are you posting in "The Classic" section ?

Is that a Bell HomeHub ? If you absolutely want to connect to 5Ghz, I suggest you disable the built in band steering on those stupid integrated router/modems provided by Bell. Under WiFi, in Advance settings, you probably have some options to to allow you to split them and to rename the 5Ghz band (add a "-5" or something to it to distinguish it from the 2.4). Actually many IoT devices need this option done, but for the opposite reason (since they need 2.4Ghz, but they can't see it sometimes with band steering enabled). Doing this, you can ensure you are connecting to the 5Ghz band, without allowing the dumb modem/router to make the decision.

Cool.. Growing up was pretty cool for me also. My Dad and I were on the same day. Mom and my sister were 3 days apart.

Try 3.. Mine is in 2 weeks

Thanks for the update. Guess it happens. i know I cringe every time I hear my remotes hit the floor when the wife forgets it's on her blanket and she rolls around. Or when she is moving plates around the kitchen and it is sitting at the edge of a counter So far I have been lucky that none have failed completely, but there have been a few ties where they have completely come apart (but managed to clips them all back together).

Just curious, as a test only, have you tried maybe another HDMI cable ? Tried it on another TV/Screen ?

That should not make a difference, but doesn't hurt to try switching. It is not sitting near any heat source (TV heat vent, etc..) ? Is it getting too hot maybe ? Have you tried maybe changing the USB cable or block adapter used for powering the device ? I have seen cases where cable or block adapter can no longer provide the required current (ie: they just fail at higher loads).

Keep in mind that when you turn max volume off, you have 2 volume controls. One is the ones on top of the remote which will control the TV volume controls (same as using your Samsung remote) assuming you get it learned. And then the second volume is the volume control of the box itself, which is controlled by the VOL rocker switch on the middle left of the remote. I rarely use the TV volume controls (since I don't use any other inputs any more). I have put the TV at a little over halfway up in terms of volume (each TV may be different), and then I just use the buzz box's volume controls.

This remote does not "know" any TV codes. When it blinks, for a bit, it is in "learning" mode. You point your TV remote to the front of the BT200, you press your TV power button and it learns (records) it. Then when you are out of "learning mode", when you press the power button, it replays what you recorded to it (ie: your TV remotes, power button). For the volume controls, the volume buttons on top are for you to be able to learn your TV volume. The volume controls in the middle on the side, are for the volume control of your U5. Honestly, the remote doesn't really care what you "learn" into each of the 4 programmable buttons. In my case, since I don't use the "source" feature, since the buzz box is the only thing I use, I have programmed the source button, as the "sleep" button (from my TV remote). So now every time I press the source button, my TV increments 30, 60, 90 minutes, sleep mode before it will auto turn itself off. The instructions are pretty clean in the manual link I provided earlier.