Emporium

I'd change the powerkey definition to power off, instead of standby/suspend, that way every time you power up the machine, you get a fresh boot and it will reconnect when it tries to bring up the service. Yes it takes an extra 30 seconds to boot up the box, but you will save many headaches caused from suspend crap leftovers.

When you are in buzztv 5 (liveTV or whatever), hit menu->settings->configuration and I believe if you scroll down, you will see the backup&restore option. You go though that, and before you hit finish, there should be the destination on the bottom right (going from memory). Make sure it is set up to go to a USB stick you have inserted. Once done, you can take the stick out, and pop it into your PC and you should have a ZIP file on it that was created from the backup tool.

The only thing you can backup (which is always good thing to do), is to backup your BuzzTV settings (ie: servers, app settings, favorites...). That way if anything happens and you are forced to do a factory reset, you can easily restore your server and favorites. PS: just make sure you save the backup file to a USB stick, because if you save it internally only, then it is gone once you do a reset, so kind of defeats the purpose. Now for backing up the whole box including 3rd party apps you may have installed, like DU already mentioned, there is no way. If 3rd party apps have a function to export their configs, then great.

And what is your question ? Do you actually have a 4900 ? If so, what firmware/software version do you have installed ? Need to provide more info. Was it working previously ? I'm assuming MAC sub ?

For the nvme slot, you are limited when using sticks with a heatsink. I have attached some pics I took. First of all, as mentioned above, the slot is slightly under the opening, and you put it in at an angle and there are a few millimetres that are underneath. Even though there is technically about 5 to 6 mm clearance (rightmost pic), due to the insertion angle anything more than 2 or 3mm would be an issue to get installed. And there is no point in getting anything too expensive anyhow. The basic Crucial 1TB would be plenty, and you will not notice any difference with higher speeds anyhow. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25NXWC7 The one you linked to, has a HUGE heatsink. Hell, I am sure it would be an issue even in some PCs, as the height would often cause an issue for the GPU installation, since they are often nearby.

As mentioned in another thread last week, it is presently in Release Candidate, so hopefully it will be soon. There is no ECD or fixed date. https://stbtalk.com/topic/14321-update/#findComment-36856

Had you changed it ? I'm assuming you already tried the default 0000 ? PS: Next time, please start your own thread, since your question has NOTHING to do with the original post.

Just took latest firmware, and I just tested it. Doesn't work for me either. And the Last channel history is a little strange. Changed a few channels. Then from full screen, DPAD-DN twice to get shortcuts, then scroll right to go to "last channel" icon, and press OK. It brings up what is supposed to be the "Last Channel history" (I'll clarify shortly what I mean by "supposed to be". From there I can select any channel and it will not change, it just closes the list goes back to the channel that is playing. Now, reason I said "supposed to be" is because the Last Channel history list is NOT in the order I would expect it to be in like other buzz boxes. Other buzz boxes, the last channel history list shows the last channel you were on (not including your current channel), at the top. And then goes down in the order they were tuned to. So a typical queue where the channel gets popped into. On the L1, IF you are selecting channels that are not in the list, it will add them to the top of the queue (as expected). But, if the channel is already in the list (further down for example), it will NOT be popped to the top of the list. It just stay in it's existing position in the "list". It does internally keep track of the actual "last channel" since the last channel "button" works fine when short pressed for single last channel quick change. IF I long press to get the list, the channel which it will jump to when I short press the last channel button, can be anywhere in the "displayed" list. In summary, when you tune to a channel, if the channel is in the list already, it should be bubbled up to the top of the list. At least that is how I recall i working on other boxes. I will check a few boxes on the weekend.

Could we connect a mouse to this box, and would it be functional ? If so, then it might eventually be nice to have some other VPN clients (I use Windscribe myself). Can use a mouse to easily configure it, with auto connect at boot, spilt tunnels or whatever else user wants. And at least this way, if need to change VPN destination server it is easier to go through the client instead of generating new OpenVPN certs and importing them, etc.. Not an issue for me, since I do have a few VPN connections direct on my router, and I use different routing policies to route certain devices through the preferred VPN tunnel. But that is not the typical user

Can't wait to get mine. It's in transit. Hopefully it makes it here before Canada Post decides to strike

Yes, the 4500 was 5.0 4000 specs https://buzztv.com/4000-series/ 4500 specs https://buzztv.com/4500-series/

Pretty sure the both of those 4000 devices were only BT4.2. So obviously the headphones would need to be able to also connect to older BT 4.2 device.

I know it sounds dumb, but first try changing your power key definition to shutdown. Then turn off both BT and WiFi. Then do an actual shutdown (you should see it say "shutting down"). Then power back up, enable both BT and WiFi. Then try to pair your headphones.

First of all, your assumption that it is the buzz box problem is far from conclusive. You missed one VERY critical fact. The Nvidia shield is NOT running Android 13. Last I checked, it was still running Android 11. This is not a negligible difference. And since not many media boxes are running Android 13, it is quite likely that the software in question has never been tested on Android 13. Tivimate is 3rd party software and this is a Buzz forum, so not sure you'll get much help. This sounds more like a Tivimate issue or Server issue. You are obviously not the first person to get this issue: https://www.reddit.com/r/TiviMate/comments/xrl2te/error_456/?rdt=47033 Buying a Buzz box, and then using a 3rd party app for IPTV is kind of a waste. As Ryu said, try using BuzzTV 6 or BuzzTV 5.

The TV is not THAT old (2017) My main TV in the living room is a 25yr old 55" Sharp Aquos. Now that is older And the one in my kitchen is an even older Audiovox with no HDMI input (just component). Not in front of the X5 SS box right now, but did you enable the HDMI CEC options on the box to be able to control TV volume ? I am not understanding your 3rd paragraph. You say your headphones are connected to the TV. Are they connected using BT, or the side jack (wired) ? For a headphone point of view, I don't see the difference of the Buzz box being at "enable max volume" and then controlling the volume from the TV. Or Putting TV volume at 60-70%, and then disabling the "force max volume" on the buzz box, and allowing the buzz box to control the volume. Either way, it is still the combination of the 2 volumes that would come out of the TV speakers or headphones. If the headphones are BT, you could also technically pair them to the Buzz box. I do it all the time with my 4900 that I have in my bedroom. And when I turn the headphones on (usually at night when the wife goes to sleep), as soon as they par, the volume is redirected from the speakers to the headphones. BTW: Are you using a soundbar by any chance ? Just curious, since only 1 of the HDMI ports I believe supports ARC. But I do believe all the ports support CEC.

Had you installed a USB key or MicroSD card and format it as "internal storage" ? If formatted as internal storage, then the OS will take the liberty of installing apps on this storage when it can. But, downside is that if you remove it, or if it fails, you will probably need to reset your box ,since it will be a mess with all sorts of stuff missing. All storage on the box should preferably be formatted as "removable storage" to avoid that sitution.

It's an SSD, so it should not require as much current, so it should work. Have you tried it on a P6 ? The last firmware also fixed a lot of the exFAT filesystem issues.

There is probably not enough power to spin up the mechanical drive from the USB ports. I have a few similar drives (Seagate and WD passports) and in some cases using a USB-A to USB-C adapter and plugging into the USB-C port instead provided a little more power and it worked. In other cases, I had to use a cable similar to the one below, to get power from 2 USB ports to get it to spin up. And in one case (older drive), no matter what I did, it would not spin up properly. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FGDWM7B For these devices, since they are stationary, I typically just get larger USB drives that have their own external power supply. Sure they are not portable, but in this case, I did not care. And I recently added a small NVMe into the unit, which I recovered from some old laptops. Don't know what type of cable/connector your drive has, but instead of an adapter cable, you can also just get another cable which has the 2 pigtails. One for data/power and the other one for just power. These used to be quite common in drives, a while back when most laptops did not have enough juice available from the USB ports. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N1J0KU2

So is it an XR4000 or a Classic ? It's one of the few boxes I don't have, but I'd be very surprised if the XR4000 has a 2024 firmware (not saying impossible, but very unlikely).

When you selected EXTERNAL for VOD, what external player did you use ? That is very odd. If you could not get it to work with any external player, then good luck for any player to play it.

The only time I have seen that is when the internet connection is bad, and the stream keeps dropping, so the box tries to reconnect. And some servers are incredibly slow at killing idle connections so it looks like multiple connection when in reality most of those connection are disconnected. I did find however that if you force your stream type to "TS" instead of auto or HLS. it seems to not keep the connection as persistent.

Don't need to remind me of backups. I'm a backupaholic I have a few 5 bay and 8 bay synology units. And I also have 2x 12 bay rackmount RS2418+ units as my main units. The main unit has most of my files and is the one forward facing to my internal network and family can see and use. The second unit, is not on the actual network. It has been configured as a Hypervault destination, and it can ONLY be seen from the main NAS using the hypervault API. That way even if the first unit get's attacked by any ransomware that may originate on some other device on the network, it can't see the hypervault server. The Main NAS backs up all it's filesystems weekly onto this second NAS (which it can only see via a direct ethernet connection - no switch). And there is at least a 6 month retention configured. And any super personal/critical files, are backed up remotely to my old Synology 5 bay which I have located at mom's house (so I have my offsite backup). So I fully understand about the backups... lol

BTW, there is a new firmware coming very soon, which will address many issues with exFAT drives. And from some testing I did, at least for USB drives, any drives 16GB or smaller will get formatted by default in FAT32 format. Anything lager will get format as exFAT which will overcome the 4GB file size limitation (which is an FAT32 filesystem limitation and not a Buzz limitation). And they also greatly improved the exFAT detection/recognition which was an issue. So don't go overboard just yet on filling up the NVMe drive. Wait till the next update, so you can then reformat it, and it should hopefully address the issues. But one thing for sure, stay with removable storage. Formatting as internal is just a recipe for disaster the day it gets corrupted or crashes.

You are correct, No it didn't. Butt my friends classic did hang at buzz logo after taking the last update and rebooting. All seemed to go smooth, but after reboot, it would boot, go through buzz animated boot logo sequence, then get stuck at a buzz logo, and hang there. No matter how long you kept it there, it would not go further. Had to do a hard reset and it was fine afterwards. I just don't want to assume that ALL bugged X5 are because of the 20220624 firmware. Costs nothing but time to do a hard reset first and wait 15 or 20 minutes, before trying to flash. IF anything, probably better to flash after having done a hard reset

As mentioned in the other thread: And confirmed 3 posts below that again: "Buzz 6 only uses Server EPG right now" It is XML that is not there and will be added.