Emporium

I'm assuming you have unplugged the power and plugged it back in to do a clean boot since the update ? Just checking.

You can download VOD locally (that was added). I don't recall seeing anything about downloading catchup.

The message you see on the left stating the V20220919, IS the version that is currently installed. On the right, after it checks, it tells you that the version available is v20220919 (above the check for update button) and after checking, that you have the latest installed. You are not missing anything on your box.

What do you mean not updated ? V20220919 is less than 2 weeks old. There are 2 types of updates. One is firmware (which you are at the latest for the HD5 - which is less than 2 weeks old), V20220919. And there is an update for the BuzzTV app. Right now the 5.0.766 which is also the latest for the HD5 (it's also the same version on my X5). The BuzzTV app will often download in the background as you watch TV when there is an update for it. It is just an update to the buzztv 5 app. Once it is downloaded, it will auto install, and then the buzztv app (live tv or whatever) will restart (sometimes twice). WHAT update are you expecting which you don't have ?

Is it like the volume of the X5 stuck at max ? I have seen that toggle to "MAX VOLUME" on occasion after an update. From home screen, select Settings icon on top, then Settings, BuzzTV Utilities, Volume Control. There is an option for "force max volume". Disable that, and the remote will not control the volume setting on the X5.

Is that from when you just turn the TV off/on ? If you power down the box, then yes it will start a full boot process (which I prefer anyhow). But if you just turn the TV off (try turning TV off without the remote, from on TV buttons), the box should auto turn off after 3 or 4 seconds. Then when you turn the TV back on, the box should come on instantaneously and in the HOME screen directly, no boot sequence. At least it does for me, and I am at the exact same firmware/buzztv version as you. That just auto launches the Live TV, after it completely boots. What Flyinghigh is talking about is the equivalent of the "suspend" function. On the X5 (and U5), the suspend feature only works by turning the TV off. The device senses TV is off and goes into suspend mode. When TV comes back on, the unit comes out of suspend mode. For now, that is the only suspend method on these new boxes (X5, U5, HD5).

All other boxes yes. Not on the HD5. I noticed that a few weeks ago. The HD5 only has option for Shutdown and Restart for powerkey definitions. At this time, the HD5 only goes into a suspend mode if you turn off the TV (I tested it and about 3 or 4 seconds after TV is turned off, the white buzz logo goes dark. I never recall the HD5 having any other option. When you turn the TV back no, the HD5 comes on pretty instantaneously.

It is installed on my X5 and U5, but I don't recall version. I just installed the latest version I found on Aptoide.

Oh, it finds them also (in my case all 10 buzz boxes and 2 Mii Boxes that are connected), but can you run the LAN test (last option). In theory it should initiate a transfer between the devices to get an idea of LAN speeds. Tried launching the option on my U5 and X5 simultaneously, and got message that it may take a few seconds for it to detect other devices, but did not start any test. Oh well.

Same here.. I have powered it off, and even unplugged power and all is still good.

I get way more than 55 (but I am wired). If you are WiFi, then that is a whole different story and all sorts of factors can come into play. On WiFi I got roughly 75down/15up on my connection. But my box is in the corner of my basement. And the QiS queue I have my WiFi devices on are tpically low priority (since all my devices are typically wired). I was hoping to find something that would allow me to measure speed while downloading from my NAS, but didn't. I even tried using the Analiti software you mention, since in "theory" it has an option for LAN test with devices running the software, but the software is buggy and can't see another box running it. I tried it running on my X5 and U5 at the same time, and they could not see each other. Oh well.

If I remember correctly, don't think the E1 had the required performance to run Buzz5 (I could be wrong).

I only have 120/20 internet package at home. And I am getting 93.47Mbps down, and 18.54Mbps up. So I am pretty close to maxing out my internet connection. Ran the same test on my U5 and got roughly the same result.

Hardware reset for VidStick. Not very different than other boxes, but just in case. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFqGsmO4C_c

using V20220919 5.0.766 buzzTV app, my backlight works on my HD5. I'm assuming you are using the App to change the backlight status ? On my X5 at one point I needed to just toggle the backlight from on, to off and then back to on to get it working and synced. Keep in mind, if batteries are low, back light does tend to flicker. I have to say, as much as I like the key mapping options in the app. I DID like on the BT100 and BT200 the option to long press the blue button to toggle backlight on/off. In the middle of the night, while watching TV in bed, it was easy to turn on backlight without trying to navigate through the menus. ***EDIT*** OK, as I was writing the above I discovered something. IF you try to turn on backlighting from the Buzztv Smart Remote app, you will get the flash you mentioned. IF you go into settings (top icon), then select BuzzTV utilities, and choose the Remote Control from there, and toggle the backlight, it works as expected. The status of the backlight is not synced between the Smart Remote app and what is in the menu tool. So I guess @allaboutbuzzwill need to merge the functionality on this 2 screens/menus. But at least there is a simple workaround.

When it happened to me and it was a little strange. I unpaired my remote. Then when I went to the add remote/accessory BT screen, even though I did NOT put my remote in pairing mode, yet it still saw it.. But when I selected it, it would say it was pairing... but after a while it would fail. Then I did it using a different sequence. When you go the remote and accessory settings screen, unpair the BT400. Then, select add new remote.. Wait till it starts to check and it will see your BT400 at the top (at least I did, even though my remote was NOT yet in paring mode). Select it, and it will say pairing (or at least it is trying to).. Then, and only then, press and hold the OK+Home button till the LED starts flashing. Then the "pairing" notification changes to "connected". It was a a one off, so I did not think anything of it, but worth a try to do in the specific sequence. Just a thought, and something to try.

Agreed.. My bad. What I meant to say is it was version 4.0.5xx or something like that. My second box was on that version up until last week. Upgraded it to 5.0.xxx last week.

Started on it's own as I was watching TV.

When I recently upgraded my second 4900 (from buzz4 to 5), it took the first update.. Then after a reboot, I left it on Live TV for about 30 minutes or so, and it eventually pulled in the latest buztv5 version. So it was not instantaneous, but it did eventually come through. I think it goes in a queue, and will get sent shortly after.

Keep in mind that Alkaline batteries are nominal 1.5V, yet NiMH batteries are only 1.2V. So for 2 batteries, assuming fully charged, you are 3V vs 2.4V, so that is at best 80% at ideal top condition rechargeables. And typically in real world situation, Alkalines tend to measure closer to 1.6V out of package. And rechargeables slightly under 1.2V, so the difference is even bigger.

Have you tried unpairing it and using it as IR only (ie: no bluetooth pairing). See if it works and then do a clean pairing.. I don't recall having that issue with the ST4000 at least. But I could check again tomorrow.

Also on 0106. If it ain't broke, don't fix it

Am I a dev for Buzz, no. But I have done over 30 years of dev on various realtime platforms and have done a lot of h/w engineering. If you post in an open forum, expect replies from everyone. It' usually a benefit, not a negative. You don't want people's input or recommendations, then just deal with private messages with whoever you want, why post in an open forum. You may be a network admin, but seem to have no concept about hardware design. Even though the network port is a 10/100, it does not mean that it can reach it's full potential. All of these connections to the outside world, need to connect to the CPU, and it all depends on what communication lanes they are using or sharing with other devices. The I/O on the Gen2 chips was not stellar (this was the biggest issue). IF I recall everything shared a single PCIe lane. Reason I also asked you to check the WiFi is because there were MANY reports that the 5Ghz band on most of the S905X2 based boxes (not only Buzz), was the only way to achieve around 90Mbps. Probably due to the way it was connected internally. On the driver point of view, you are at the mercy of amlogic. And much of it's SDK was in binary blobs only, so you don't have the sources to all of it. Making it very difficult to modify built in features like ethernet drivers. You say you have an ASUS router. If you do, and being a network admin, you should be able to easily enable and then ssh or telnet into the router and check from the command line if the connection is half or full duplex. This is one of the advantages of most asus routers. simple enough for the average home user, yet many advanced features accessible from the command line for more advanced users.

OK.. The connected vs not connected status message is a bug on many Android 9 boxes (and not only buzz boxes). It does not affect connectivity (and you do see the IP address), but it is annoying. In some cases, just toggling the WiFi button on the top ON-OFF again, will force change the status message. This is not isolated to just the xr4000. Now for the speed, you can't compare your laptop vs the xr4000. Your laptop probably has a Gigabit ethernet adapter, and the xr4000 is just a 10/100 NIC. So it is expected to be at least 10 times slower and will never even come close to capping out your network. Yours is a little on the slow side (even for a 100Mb connection) , but for IPTV it will not affect anything, since I don't know of many IPTV services using that high of a bitrate anyhow. Try opening chrome and point to the following site and see what you get for speed rating: https://fast.com/ Also, just curious, have you tried using WiFi ? Also, keep in mind that the xr4000 is not one of the fastest machines (it has the quite older S905X2 CPU [Gen 2 Cortex A53 based], which dates back to 2019], and it was the budget model with only 2GB of RAM (compared to the XRS which has 4GB). As such, before running any tests, make sure to go to home screen and press the home button 2 or 3 times to close off any background apps first. With 2GB of RAM, the machine will lag behind if it has too many background apps open. PS: Are you running a Dlink router/switch in your network ? Some Dlink switches are known to have really pathetic speeds if used with anything other than typically gigabit connections. So 10/100 connection tend to crawl on some models of Dlink switches/routers. Before I redid my whole network, I used to have a 24port Dlink switch which was fine with most devices. But with 10/100 devices it did all sorts of strange stuff. It was even dropping packets on some of my security cameras Needless to say, it was scrapped.

The BT400 is also an IR remote, so you can use it by pointing it to the front of the x5 to get into the menus. Once it happened to me and it was strange. I unpaired my remote. Then when I went to the add remote/accessory BT screen, even thoguh I did NOT put my remote in pairing mode, yet it still saw it.. But when I selected it, it would say it was pairing... but after a while it would fail. Then I did it using a different sequence. When you go the remote and accessory settings screen, unpair the BT400. Then, select add new remote.. Wait till it starts to check and it will see your BT400 at the top (at least I did, even though my remote was NOT yet in paring mode). Select it, and it will say pairing (or at least it is trying to).. Then, and only then, press and hold the OK+Home button till the LED starts flashing. Then the "pairing" notification changes to "connected". It only happened to me once. It was bizarre, but I could not reproduce it, so hard to fix or explain something that can not be reproduced. Anyhow, give it a try.