Emporium

There is not much at the moment that the Buzz box can do to solve this issue. Maybe in some future update there could be a feature added to search only through a specific category (assuming the foreign language films are in a category of their own). Or maybe sort results by category (as an option). But right now, it searches ALL VOD. You can maybe check with your provider. Maybe they have an option to disable certain categories/languages (all depends how they have them bundled). It is always nicer when all languages and sub tracks are encoded/multiplexed into a single mkv file. That way single file to support multiple languages. I do that for many of the movies in my personal library (at least for the subtitles). I prefer movies in their original language audio, but I always download and multiplex the subs for 3 languages (to accommodate my parents and friends who may want a copy).

You may not find the exact same pinout (since there is no standard), but as long as the Ground is in the same place (first from base of connector), rest is childs play. Good luck.

Just for clarity, this is what I mean by my last comment (connector too long): One on left is too long. One on right is the one that I am actually using.

OK.. I just pulled the cable from my TV and buzzed it out (no pun intended) Obviously took into consideration WHICH colors I was using for Video Most importantly, I found the portion closest to the base of the jack is Ground (connected to the outside of each RCA connection), then followed by Video. Then the 2 tips, I can't comment which is left/right, but that is for sure no biggie. The WDTV is GRLV (from base of connector towards tip). When cable connected to my Buzz, the Red is my Video cable, so Buzz is either GVRL or GVLR (Base to tip). Either way, at least you know where the ground is, which is the most important (something I overlooked on my first comment of this thread). Hope this helps you make the correct decision. Not sure dollar store cables even list the pinout unless it is some good quality overstock they are liquidating Just be carefull that the 3.5mm connector is not too long. I have one which the base (ground) is quite a bit longer than the usual (don't even recall where I got it). So it makes it VERY tricky to use. IT works, but you can't insert it all the way.. Need to insert and then pull it a mm or 2. If you get it off a little you get audio humm... The WDTV cable was perfect (except for the order of the VRL connectors, but that was simple swap.

Exactly what I was going to recommend. Something like this is not too expensive and you can plug the HDMI from the Buzz box to it, and it will output the composite to the TV. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09MKL1BLB And in this case (amazon canada), it is fulfilled by amazon, so if it doesn't work, it can easily be returned.

For M3U supplier will typically provide you 2 URL. One for playlist and one for the epg. They would be in the form of (note, your username and password are hardcoded as part of the URL): Playlist: http:// yourserver.xyz/get.php?username=yourusername&password=YourPassword&type=m3u&output=m3u8 EPG: http:// yourserver.xyz/xmltv.php?username=yourusername&password=YourPassword Now, if the supplier only gave you a single URL and a username/password odds are, it is an XC api type login. So you can set it up using XC.

I have 2 X5 units and they are both rock solid and stable. Maybe you just got a defect. It can happen, even with the best of devices. I'm sure Buzz will take care of it.

Lol.. I forgot to even check my XPL3000 box...Oh well.

You mention that you bought this for "pause rewind forward". Where ALL you tests above with external media installed and TS enabled ? Or just plain vanilla, nothing installed or enabled yet ? Sorry to ask, but I did not see any mention of one way or another in the thread. With incompatible external media, TS enabled can cause all sorts of freezing and hanging.

I don't have the order, but I'm using on of those adapters on my E2, connected to an old TV. However even if you don't get the pinout order, it doesn't really matter too much. I used one I had lying around from some other device, I "think" my old WDTV Live, and all I did was plug it in, and then connect a cable to the composite video of the TV, and then cycle through the 3 connectors and see which one produced video It's not like you will be unplugging and plugging it back on a regular basis (and even if you did, after doing it once, you could label the output cables). I could tell you that it is NOT mapped in the same order as the WDTV Live, since I am pretty sure I used the white audio connecter for Video. And obviously the other 2 were audio (just using one since the TV only has 1 audio input. No biggie.

ISPs sometimes buy some address ranges from other companies. And when they do, it can sometimes take a while for all the records to change over to reflect the new owners/locations. I know many years ago, my ISP at the time (here in Canada) had expanded rapidly and bought a few address ranges from another ISP south of the border (in the US). For about 6 months, if I checked my location, it always stated that I was in the US Took a few months before it was finally sorted out. Nothing I could do. Try going to the website below, and ensure to agree to location permission (if asked), and you will see quite a few details about your IP. Where it thinks it is located, the hostname, a proxy IP if ISP uses one (otherwise will be your IP), the ISP it is registered to, etc... And if you click on the [Details] next to IP location, it will show you the info provided by various database providers for the IP. https://www.iplocation.net/

Have you tried changing the video stream type (M3U, TS, HLS, ...) ? Try switching to HLS.. live tv/menu/settings/configuration bottom of the menu.

There hasn't been any update on the 4500 in quite a while, so it is obviously not related to any changes on the buzz side. Did you try rebooting your router/modem ? I know many say "everything else works", but many times it is strange states of the router. Also, have you tried with a VPN connection (some ISPs are starting to add block lists and throttling lists). Other option would be to go through the apps in settings, and clearing the Cache. Have you checked on another box (on your network), to confirm it is not real-debrid itself, a routing issues to real-debrid servers, or a DNS server issue ? PS: This will be the last reply to this topic, since this is a BuzzTV support site, and in this case, it is NOT anything to do with the BuzzTV software on the BuzzTV box. This is NOT the right forum for support on 3rd party apps (even if they are on a Buzz box). There are other sites/forums you can discuss 3rd party app issues.

Unfortunately most all-in-one modem/routers provided by the ISP are usually not that great for WiFi (even here in North America). They are super basic and are barely up to the job. The setting you are looking for, would be under the "Wireless settings". There is nothing WiFi in the settings you posted above. It would something with the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands. Having said that, I myself have a more commercial grade setup at home ,but even then, for most of my media boxes ,I always have them wired, it is just more stable.

What router are you using ? Does your router allow you to disable "band steering" (some call it differently). Basically to allow you to separate 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz band, instead of allowing the router to announce one SSID and have it decide what to use.

Pretty sure that option is not on the current public release (5.0.799) yet Typically if a channel has Catchup available on the server, if you try to go back a few minutes or whatever, it uses the Catchup option. Enabling this option forces the system to ignore the Catchup stream and use the TS buffer on your external media instead (like for all other channels that don't have catchup).

Quote from new context sensitive help which will be available in upcoming buzztv 5 updates: "Force the use of Time Shift on LiveTV channels with built-in Catch up"

That just proves that the Buzz IR is just awesome !!! No other IR remotes are that good. For the pairing, I found that sometimes you need to put the remote into pairing, then go into the remote menu. It should see the remote at that time, and if you select it, it should say pairing/connecting...But I find if I leave it continue, it will sometimes timeout. But if while it is saying that it is pairing, I hit OK, it works If that does not work, you can try doing a factory reset on the remote: Hold the D-Pad Down button and the 0 (Zero) button for 4 seconds until it blinks 3 times.

This is a Buzz forum, so you won't get many hard recommendations. This is the wrong forum to ask for those recommendation. There are many other iptv forums which do allow the discussion of different programs and services.

Sorry to hear that you have decided to leave the BuzzTV h/w and app. Any specific reason, why ? What box / BuzzTV version do you have ? Have you tried any of the new 5 series boxes ? Something like "The Classic", which I always recommend to friends as best bang for the buck. There is no app in my opinion that even comes close (personal opinion). There are many other apps, but they are either primarily designed for touch devices, have crappy UIs, have way outdated UIs, they are super basic with close to no features, only support XC or MAC, but not both, etc... There is really only one 3rd party app as far as I am concerned that even remotely is considered useable but it comes with it's own set of issues and peculiarities. You will need to do your own research on it's features, options, and cost (since it is not free). This is a BuzzTV forum, and there is no support or discussion regarding any other apps. Good luck in your new adventures.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it For app (other than Buzztv itself), I really don't care much for updates. Once in a while I'll download latest APK if enough new features are introduced (like on Plex client), or if I expect a bug fix for something that affects my usage, but otherwise, I don't often care. The latest with some apps, is not the most stable. But to each their own. Some people want the latest and greatest all the time. Personally I prioritize stability over the "latest".

Incompatible or not tested is usually because app was designed for a different android version than what is installed on box, and can be incompatible depending on the target sdk, etc... But many apps are a little more forgiving on that. However "app won't work" is more a definitive message that you have selected the wrong platform Anyhow, I typically download the APK files for all the apps I typically use, keep them on a USB stick and on my NAS. It makes reinstallation a lot easier when I need it. And that way I do not need to use my google sign in on the box (I prefer not to sign in to my boxes - personal preference).

The "this app won't work for your device" message is usually because you are trying to download a version for the incorrect platform (x86, etc..). For these boxes you need the one for the armeabi-v7a architecture. Unlike the Google play store, aptoide does NOT filter results compatible specifically for your platform only. You need to know what you need.

If someone can tell you what version of netflix app is installed and working on their 4900 you can always use a site like apkmirror and download the apk for that version (for the armeabi-v7a architecture) and install it manually. On the 4500 I think the original version was 6.26.0 or something like that. you can try searching for that on apkmirror if you want. Keep in mind you will most probably need mouse cursor to use netflix on these boxes.

This from someone who has no forum etiquette and decided to hijack someone else's thread. I have 2 X5 units (an original X5 128AI, and a newer X5 AX-C 64GB), one on beta firmware and one on public release firmware and have none of the issues you mentioned. And saying that the remote is only good for a few feet, if not on Bluetooth is crazy. Buzz has some of the best IR useable distances. Sometimes when I use the wrong remote (one not paired), I don't even realize it, because the IR is so powerful that no matter how far I am and pointing or not pointing towards the box, it just works. Unless you have the box locked behind some cabinet, or behind the TV, or if your room is 30ft+ long, it is one of the best IR around. I've tried many crappy Chinese knockoff boxes and most of those remotes don't even work facing the box at 6ft away. Did you ever contact Buzz directly by email ? Maybe you just happened to get a defect. It can happen in mass production. I had a similar issue on my old xrs4900 ages ago, but it turned out that I had manually disabled the WiFi on the box (since I am wired on all my boxes), and in turn the chipset would turn off the BT without reporting anything. Turned the WiFi back on manually, and never had an issue again.