Emporium

I'm assuming that in the remote app, if shows that the remote is "Connected" ? What version is listed as the "current firmware" ? -------------------- Try unpairing the remote (from settings->Remotes and accessories) and then repairing it ? To put the remote in "pairing mode" (after you start a remote "search" on the box, you can follow these instructions: -------------------- If all else fails, you could try to factory reset the remote, just in case something is latched ? I know it is not something people like to do, but it is wroth a shit, just in case. If nothing else seems to make a difference, then I would strongly recommend contacting Buzz Customer support via email at cs@buzztv.com

And BuzzTV does not sell the IPTV service, they just sell the boxes.

If your sub is MAC based, you can easily just install STBEmu to check and see how much EPG it gets.

What does EPG have to do with this ? I assume you mean just LiveTV channels ? Have you tried changing media player for LiveTV from the Configuration menu ? (depending what version of buzztv you have, it may be listed as Default, Primary, Secondary, backup, etc..) Also, would help to post what device you have (Vidstick ST4000 or otherwise), and what exact version of BuzzTV you are presently running.

That is usually because of low power in the batteries. Have you tried a Fresh set of batteries ? PS: Have you checked in the remote app on the buzz box to see if the backlight on is properly synced ? Mine was once unsynced (since I reset the box once) and it did do strange things. Worst case, in the app on the box, toggle the backlight to off, then on again to force it to sync, and see if that helps.

I use windscribe primarily on my xrs4900 and it works fine. I can test it on my U5 later this afternoon.

You can press the arrow key (bottom right of the D-pad) on the BT400 and enable the mouse cursor and then use the D-pad to move around. IT is very cumbersome, agreed. But that is not Buzz's fault that Netflix is getting very tight on which devices have the right to use their app on a TV box. They are the ones putting artificial and unnecessary restrictions. Using a remote like the ARQ series makes the forced mouse use a little more tolerable if you use it regularly. When Netflix was just a content provider, they did not put much effort in restrictions. However once they starting creating their own content and became a content creator, their views completely changed and they locked down the app. Honestly, "most" people I know (not all yet) have dropped netflix, in favor of the usual VOD/TV Series that are offered by decent IPTV services. With decent IPTV services you get the full combo of Netflix, Disney+, Prime Video, etc..

In the Aptoide store, it clearly says that this app requires a mouse. And there is a quick popup on the bottom that states that this version is not tested on STB and TV devices. Netflix is pushing their DRM and only support their "certified devices" (like the shield, firetv, appletv, rocku, etc..). The last version of netflix to not require DRM was Netflix 6.26.1 build 15 31696. If you search for it, you can download the APK from sites like apkmirror if you please. Anything from V7 upwards will tell you that your device is not compatible.

OK.. So it is confirmed that it is a 12V 3A power supply on the 3900. You may be able to get away with a 2A version if you don't use the internal HDD slot, or if you are using an SSD... but it you have a regular mechanical 2.5" HDD, I am pretty sure you will need the 3A, since the 2A would probably be just shy of having enough power with an HDD present.

I have always powered down my boxes to ensure a clean start every time (1 extra minute to boot won't kill me). But it may be worth trying to disable all CEC for a little while (I know you will need to turn the TV and box on separately), just to see if it is the CEC that is causing the issue and stopping it from turning on. I know there was recently a firmware for the 4900 to address ad issue with powering it on. Don't know if there is a similar one for the 4500. Maybe @allaboutbuzz can chime in on this.

Have you tried under the HDMI settings section to disable all CEC related options ? Another thing you can try is swapping the HDMI cable with another if you have one. If CEC is enabled it may not see a powered on device on the other end and not want to power up.

I completely forgot about that. But maybe that is why they used a 3A power supply, since they probably do the upconverting from 5V to 12V internally (which obviously give you lower current - since power is maintained [assuming 0 loss]). Anyhow, when you get a chance you can check you power supply and let us know.

I am assuming you tried replacing with a GOOD set of batteries ? As the batteries get weak on these remotes, they can start to not respond to some features.

I have the North American version of the adapter, and it is also 12V 1.5A. Maybe they got a bad batch of European adapters. It can happen. Anyhow, let us know what happens.

I just checked my 3000, and it is 2A. But I'm sure it would be fine with a 1.5A also. Even the 3900, I doubt it "needs" 3A. a 2A would probably be sufficient, but having more current (amps) available does not hurt (unlike having too high of a voltage which could smoke the box). Pretty sure it is 5V. Only reason the xrs4900 and U5 use a 12V, is because of the SATA port which "by specs" requires a 12V line.

Are you sure ? I thought only the xrs4900 and U5 used 12V adapters, due to the SATA HDD port. According to an old unboxing Video, it says 5V, 3A... https://youtu.be/J-1VYkcPMgE?t=52 And a closeup still shot from the video:

Not every user is at the same technical level. Having done tech support in the past, you can't assume anything. Even the simplest of tasks you NEED to repeat with all users, regardless of how much they THINK they know. You spending money to buy a new power supply is just waste of money. You already established that you are using the original U5 power supply (can you check to make sure it says 12V - in case it was accidently packaged with the wrong one). Once tech support finishes having the tests needed run (and they need to test every possibility), they will take care of you. I personally spend a few days with one user a few weeks ago trying all sorts of stuff because his HDD wasn't being recognized in his U5. He had even opened a ticket with buzz. We were convinced that the HDD was defective. HE even orders a USB->SATA adapter cable to be able to test the HDD on his PC. After trying everything, just randomly he mentioned that he never had a problem with his previous Buzz box, so I asked him if he was using the power supply from his old box, and low and behold that was the problem. HE tried to quickly plug in the box, so he did not use the new cables/power supply, just reused the ones from his previous box, and that was the problem. 5V vs 12V You say next day resolution with box from china. Sure, when it costs you $10 to build a crappy box, you have zero development staff, because everything is just a knock off of some other android box, and you sell for crazy mark ups, you can easily just throw another box out there, and you don't even care to get the original box back, because shipping would cost you more than the box is worth to you. But you will never even get a single update (OS or app). You can't compare apples and oranges. Yes, it may require some patience. But you will not be left with a broken box, if that is the case. They honor their warranty, and then some.

And you said in an earlier post, that you only have a single connection. When you have a scheduled recording, is your box on, and already on another channel ? IF so, it will not be able to establish a second stream in order to record. If not, is it turned off, or in suspend. If in suspend, did you properly exit BuzzTV app before putting it into suspend ? With single stream account, it is a little tricky. If there is another active connection/stream, the second stream (to be recorded) will not be able to be established and hence the recording will fail. I don't know your current situation, but just putting it out there.

Same here. I don't have a 4000, but with the 4500 when I went through the same process, I did not have to re-enter any server info. It was all maintained through the upgrade.

FYI: BuzzTV 5 is no longer in BETA. The 2015 method for updates would initially download a beta, yes. But now it will eventually download and install updates to a recent version which is no longer beta.

When you unplug the power, the RED LED goes off ? Do you by any chance have a spare HDMI cable, which you can swap ? I know it sounds strange, but if CEC is on, a defective HDMI cable may force the box to go into standby mode. Are you using the actual Power supply that came with your U5, or a power supply from another BuzzTV box you had ? Unlike all other BuzzTV boxes, the U5 and the xrs4900 use a 12V power supply, but all other buzztv boxes use only a 5V power supply. If you try to use the 5V power supply with a U5, it may work (except for the 1TB HDD/SSD), but it may not be 100% stable.

And you are sure that your service provider has 7 day EPG ? Just curious, have you tried with another app (stbemu, smarters, etc..), just as a test to see if you get 7 day with the other app ?

I have 2x 4900 boxes and I don't have this issue on either one or the other (on 2 different servers). Populates daily. I haven't checked my 4500 in a while however. Have you tried clearing the BuzzTV5 cache, just in case ? As a reference, what version of BuzzTV are you running on the 4500 and 4900 ?

From the HOME screen, do you have a Settings icon on the TOP ?

UHF channels ? Are you using the BuzzTV app with some IPTV server provider, or are you using some 3rd party app with some OTA tuner like an HD Homerunner ? Just curious on why the mention of UHF channels specifically. If you are using the BuzzTV App through IPTV server, have you tried changing Media player ? What version of BuzzTV are you running on both devices ? Check the Updates screen and let us know what version you are running on both devices.