Emporium

using V20220919 5.0.766 buzzTV app, my backlight works on my HD5. I'm assuming you are using the App to change the backlight status ? On my X5 at one point I needed to just toggle the backlight from on, to off and then back to on to get it working and synced. Keep in mind, if batteries are low, back light does tend to flicker. I have to say, as much as I like the key mapping options in the app. I DID like on the BT100 and BT200 the option to long press the blue button to toggle backlight on/off. In the middle of the night, while watching TV in bed, it was easy to turn on backlight without trying to navigate through the menus. ***EDIT*** OK, as I was writing the above I discovered something. IF you try to turn on backlighting from the Buzztv Smart Remote app, you will get the flash you mentioned. IF you go into settings (top icon), then select BuzzTV utilities, and choose the Remote Control from there, and toggle the backlight, it works as expected. The status of the backlight is not synced between the Smart Remote app and what is in the menu tool. So I guess @allaboutbuzzwill need to merge the functionality on this 2 screens/menus. But at least there is a simple workaround.

When it happened to me and it was a little strange. I unpaired my remote. Then when I went to the add remote/accessory BT screen, even though I did NOT put my remote in pairing mode, yet it still saw it.. But when I selected it, it would say it was pairing... but after a while it would fail. Then I did it using a different sequence. When you go the remote and accessory settings screen, unpair the BT400. Then, select add new remote.. Wait till it starts to check and it will see your BT400 at the top (at least I did, even though my remote was NOT yet in paring mode). Select it, and it will say pairing (or at least it is trying to).. Then, and only then, press and hold the OK+Home button till the LED starts flashing. Then the "pairing" notification changes to "connected". It was a a one off, so I did not think anything of it, but worth a try to do in the specific sequence. Just a thought, and something to try.

Agreed.. My bad. What I meant to say is it was version 4.0.5xx or something like that. My second box was on that version up until last week. Upgraded it to 5.0.xxx last week.

Started on it's own as I was watching TV.

When I recently upgraded my second 4900 (from buzz4 to 5), it took the first update.. Then after a reboot, I left it on Live TV for about 30 minutes or so, and it eventually pulled in the latest buztv5 version. So it was not instantaneous, but it did eventually come through. I think it goes in a queue, and will get sent shortly after.

Keep in mind that Alkaline batteries are nominal 1.5V, yet NiMH batteries are only 1.2V. So for 2 batteries, assuming fully charged, you are 3V vs 2.4V, so that is at best 80% at ideal top condition rechargeables. And typically in real world situation, Alkalines tend to measure closer to 1.6V out of package. And rechargeables slightly under 1.2V, so the difference is even bigger.

Have you tried unpairing it and using it as IR only (ie: no bluetooth pairing). See if it works and then do a clean pairing.. I don't recall having that issue with the ST4000 at least. But I could check again tomorrow.

Also on 0106. If it ain't broke, don't fix it

Am I a dev for Buzz, no. But I have done over 30 years of dev on various realtime platforms and have done a lot of h/w engineering. If you post in an open forum, expect replies from everyone. It' usually a benefit, not a negative. You don't want people's input or recommendations, then just deal with private messages with whoever you want, why post in an open forum. You may be a network admin, but seem to have no concept about hardware design. Even though the network port is a 10/100, it does not mean that it can reach it's full potential. All of these connections to the outside world, need to connect to the CPU, and it all depends on what communication lanes they are using or sharing with other devices. The I/O on the Gen2 chips was not stellar (this was the biggest issue). IF I recall everything shared a single PCIe lane. Reason I also asked you to check the WiFi is because there were MANY reports that the 5Ghz band on most of the S905X2 based boxes (not only Buzz), was the only way to achieve around 90Mbps. Probably due to the way it was connected internally. On the driver point of view, you are at the mercy of amlogic. And much of it's SDK was in binary blobs only, so you don't have the sources to all of it. Making it very difficult to modify built in features like ethernet drivers. You say you have an ASUS router. If you do, and being a network admin, you should be able to easily enable and then ssh or telnet into the router and check from the command line if the connection is half or full duplex. This is one of the advantages of most asus routers. simple enough for the average home user, yet many advanced features accessible from the command line for more advanced users.

OK.. The connected vs not connected status message is a bug on many Android 9 boxes (and not only buzz boxes). It does not affect connectivity (and you do see the IP address), but it is annoying. In some cases, just toggling the WiFi button on the top ON-OFF again, will force change the status message. This is not isolated to just the xr4000. Now for the speed, you can't compare your laptop vs the xr4000. Your laptop probably has a Gigabit ethernet adapter, and the xr4000 is just a 10/100 NIC. So it is expected to be at least 10 times slower and will never even come close to capping out your network. Yours is a little on the slow side (even for a 100Mb connection) , but for IPTV it will not affect anything, since I don't know of many IPTV services using that high of a bitrate anyhow. Try opening chrome and point to the following site and see what you get for speed rating: https://fast.com/ Also, just curious, have you tried using WiFi ? Also, keep in mind that the xr4000 is not one of the fastest machines (it has the quite older S905X2 CPU [Gen 2 Cortex A53 based], which dates back to 2019], and it was the budget model with only 2GB of RAM (compared to the XRS which has 4GB). As such, before running any tests, make sure to go to home screen and press the home button 2 or 3 times to close off any background apps first. With 2GB of RAM, the machine will lag behind if it has too many background apps open. PS: Are you running a Dlink router/switch in your network ? Some Dlink switches are known to have really pathetic speeds if used with anything other than typically gigabit connections. So 10/100 connection tend to crawl on some models of Dlink switches/routers. Before I redid my whole network, I used to have a 24port Dlink switch which was fine with most devices. But with 10/100 devices it did all sorts of strange stuff. It was even dropping packets on some of my security cameras Needless to say, it was scrapped.

The BT400 is also an IR remote, so you can use it by pointing it to the front of the x5 to get into the menus. Once it happened to me and it was strange. I unpaired my remote. Then when I went to the add remote/accessory BT screen, even thoguh I did NOT put my remote in pairing mode, yet it still saw it.. But when I selected it, it would say it was pairing... but after a while it would fail. Then I did it using a different sequence. When you go the remote and accessory settings screen, unpair the BT400. Then, select add new remote.. Wait till it starts to check and it will see your BT400 at the top (at least I did, even though my remote was NOT yet in paring mode). Select it, and it will say pairing (or at least it is trying to).. Then, and only then, press and hold the OK+Home button till the LED starts flashing. Then the "pairing" notification changes to "connected". It only happened to me once. It was bizarre, but I could not reproduce it, so hard to fix or explain something that can not be reproduced. Anyhow, give it a try.

Well, don't leave us hanging Want to share, in case it can ever helps someone else ?

Technically yes, which is why I mentioned "PC is the easiest, but other methods could work also".

Which version of buzz 5 are you running (BTW: it is no longer a beta) ? hit the menu key and you can see on the bottom. 5.0.xxx ? 2 services I use, I do not have any issues. I am presently running, 5.0.768. For XCAPI, have you tried removing and/or adding a "/c" at the end of the URL ?

Toast.. No.. But obviously, you will not get any new updates

Everyone should be able to get this via standard OTA update. Only time this would not come through is if you have the 20220624 firmware. In that case, there is no option but to use a microSD card and some way to transfer the files to the microSD card (PC is the easiest, but other methods could work also) to upgrade from 0624.

Update installed. Checked LiveTV for now, and still works as expected. Will do more testing this weekend. Only issue I had was that I needed to unpair and repair my remote. Minor detail, which was simple enough to address. Thnx

Update installed without an issue and all working as expected.

If you have multiple connections, it may be quite difficult to tell, unless it get's posted in one of the many sites which post daily hacked accounts. Then depending on the service you have, your account may get locked out, you may experience constant glitches, etc.. as you go over your connection limit. I've seen one that allows you to connect, you get the channel numbers and EPG, but none of the stream work, since there are already "x" number of active streams. So all depends on how it is implemented. Some services allow you to request an ISP lock, country lock, etc.. to minimize the chances that your account gets hacked. But obviously be careful what you ask for. If you travel or use your service when you are away from home on a portal device, this can cause you some headaches also.

Don't know where you are seeing all these, but as far as I know there are 3 models of the 4500. The XR4500, XRS4500 and XRS4500 MAX. https://buzztv.com/site/xr-4500/ https://buzztv.com/site/xrs-4500/ https://buzztv.com/site/xrs-4500-max/ The main difference is the internal memory and onboard storage. Other than that, they are the same. I would say the xrs4500 is probably the best suited for most people (would be quicker than the xr4500 since it has 4GB of internal memory vs 2 on the basic xr4500). If the xrs4500 max is not much more, you do get double the internal storage, but if planning to use it for recordings, then a USB stick could also be used for that, if you decide to record later.

That it happens on occasion, it does and that is normal (nature of the beast). But I have a few streams where I can easily demonstrate that if I just flash back and forth between them, it is perfectly fine when TS is disabled. If I enable TS, then I consistently get the error messages (in most cases it eventually starts to stream, but can take 4 or 6 seconds). So obviously TS is causing some glitches on certain types of streams. Still trying different permutations/streams to narrow it down.

Also, if you have TS (Timeshift) enabled, try to disable it and see if it makes a difference. I found that on most streams it is fine, but on some streams it does do some strange things. Disabling Timeshift seems to correct strange "cannot decode" type errors on those streams. I am still testing it to try to find a pattern.

What version of BuzzTV are you using ? Hit the menu button when in LiveTV, and it should be shown at the bottom of the menu. But often switch LiveTV player will help. I find some services work better with Primary player, others backup player (or default/secondary - depending on version of BuzzTV you are running).

BT200 also has TV volume control buttons So 2 extra programmable buttons.

I just paired my BT100 and it works perfectly fine also with the U5.