Emporium

Can't wait to get mine. It's in transit. Hopefully it makes it here before Canada Post decides to strike

Yes, the 4500 was 5.0 4000 specs https://buzztv.com/4000-series/ 4500 specs https://buzztv.com/4500-series/

Pretty sure the both of those 4000 devices were only BT4.2. So obviously the headphones would need to be able to also connect to older BT 4.2 device.

I know it sounds dumb, but first try changing your power key definition to shutdown. Then turn off both BT and WiFi. Then do an actual shutdown (you should see it say "shutting down"). Then power back up, enable both BT and WiFi. Then try to pair your headphones.

First of all, your assumption that it is the buzz box problem is far from conclusive. You missed one VERY critical fact. The Nvidia shield is NOT running Android 13. Last I checked, it was still running Android 11. This is not a negligible difference. And since not many media boxes are running Android 13, it is quite likely that the software in question has never been tested on Android 13. Tivimate is 3rd party software and this is a Buzz forum, so not sure you'll get much help. This sounds more like a Tivimate issue or Server issue. You are obviously not the first person to get this issue: https://www.reddit.com/r/TiviMate/comments/xrl2te/error_456/?rdt=47033 Buying a Buzz box, and then using a 3rd party app for IPTV is kind of a waste. As Ryu said, try using BuzzTV 6 or BuzzTV 5.

The TV is not THAT old (2017) My main TV in the living room is a 25yr old 55" Sharp Aquos. Now that is older And the one in my kitchen is an even older Audiovox with no HDMI input (just component). Not in front of the X5 SS box right now, but did you enable the HDMI CEC options on the box to be able to control TV volume ? I am not understanding your 3rd paragraph. You say your headphones are connected to the TV. Are they connected using BT, or the side jack (wired) ? For a headphone point of view, I don't see the difference of the Buzz box being at "enable max volume" and then controlling the volume from the TV. Or Putting TV volume at 60-70%, and then disabling the "force max volume" on the buzz box, and allowing the buzz box to control the volume. Either way, it is still the combination of the 2 volumes that would come out of the TV speakers or headphones. If the headphones are BT, you could also technically pair them to the Buzz box. I do it all the time with my 4900 that I have in my bedroom. And when I turn the headphones on (usually at night when the wife goes to sleep), as soon as they par, the volume is redirected from the speakers to the headphones. BTW: Are you using a soundbar by any chance ? Just curious, since only 1 of the HDMI ports I believe supports ARC. But I do believe all the ports support CEC.

Had you installed a USB key or MicroSD card and format it as "internal storage" ? If formatted as internal storage, then the OS will take the liberty of installing apps on this storage when it can. But, downside is that if you remove it, or if it fails, you will probably need to reset your box ,since it will be a mess with all sorts of stuff missing. All storage on the box should preferably be formatted as "removable storage" to avoid that sitution.

It's an SSD, so it should not require as much current, so it should work. Have you tried it on a P6 ? The last firmware also fixed a lot of the exFAT filesystem issues.

There is probably not enough power to spin up the mechanical drive from the USB ports. I have a few similar drives (Seagate and WD passports) and in some cases using a USB-A to USB-C adapter and plugging into the USB-C port instead provided a little more power and it worked. In other cases, I had to use a cable similar to the one below, to get power from 2 USB ports to get it to spin up. And in one case (older drive), no matter what I did, it would not spin up properly. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FGDWM7B For these devices, since they are stationary, I typically just get larger USB drives that have their own external power supply. Sure they are not portable, but in this case, I did not care. And I recently added a small NVMe into the unit, which I recovered from some old laptops. Don't know what type of cable/connector your drive has, but instead of an adapter cable, you can also just get another cable which has the 2 pigtails. One for data/power and the other one for just power. These used to be quite common in drives, a while back when most laptops did not have enough juice available from the USB ports. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N1J0KU2

So is it an XR4000 or a Classic ? It's one of the few boxes I don't have, but I'd be very surprised if the XR4000 has a 2024 firmware (not saying impossible, but very unlikely).

When you selected EXTERNAL for VOD, what external player did you use ? That is very odd. If you could not get it to work with any external player, then good luck for any player to play it.

The only time I have seen that is when the internet connection is bad, and the stream keeps dropping, so the box tries to reconnect. And some servers are incredibly slow at killing idle connections so it looks like multiple connection when in reality most of those connection are disconnected. I did find however that if you force your stream type to "TS" instead of auto or HLS. it seems to not keep the connection as persistent.

Don't need to remind me of backups. I'm a backupaholic I have a few 5 bay and 8 bay synology units. And I also have 2x 12 bay rackmount RS2418+ units as my main units. The main unit has most of my files and is the one forward facing to my internal network and family can see and use. The second unit, is not on the actual network. It has been configured as a Hypervault destination, and it can ONLY be seen from the main NAS using the hypervault API. That way even if the first unit get's attacked by any ransomware that may originate on some other device on the network, it can't see the hypervault server. The Main NAS backs up all it's filesystems weekly onto this second NAS (which it can only see via a direct ethernet connection - no switch). And there is at least a 6 month retention configured. And any super personal/critical files, are backed up remotely to my old Synology 5 bay which I have located at mom's house (so I have my offsite backup). So I fully understand about the backups... lol

BTW, there is a new firmware coming very soon, which will address many issues with exFAT drives. And from some testing I did, at least for USB drives, any drives 16GB or smaller will get formatted by default in FAT32 format. Anything lager will get format as exFAT which will overcome the 4GB file size limitation (which is an FAT32 filesystem limitation and not a Buzz limitation). And they also greatly improved the exFAT detection/recognition which was an issue. So don't go overboard just yet on filling up the NVMe drive. Wait till the next update, so you can then reformat it, and it should hopefully address the issues. But one thing for sure, stay with removable storage. Formatting as internal is just a recipe for disaster the day it gets corrupted or crashes.

You are correct, No it didn't. Butt my friends classic did hang at buzz logo after taking the last update and rebooting. All seemed to go smooth, but after reboot, it would boot, go through buzz animated boot logo sequence, then get stuck at a buzz logo, and hang there. No matter how long you kept it there, it would not go further. Had to do a hard reset and it was fine afterwards. I just don't want to assume that ALL bugged X5 are because of the 20220624 firmware. Costs nothing but time to do a hard reset first and wait 15 or 20 minutes, before trying to flash. IF anything, probably better to flash after having done a hard reset

As mentioned in the other thread: And confirmed 3 posts below that again: "Buzz 6 only uses Server EPG right now" It is XML that is not there and will be added.

Not necessarily. I had my friends Classic which had the exact same issue 2 weeks ago. She gave it to me at the office, I brought it home, did a hard reset, and it came back perfectly and did not need to flash anything. Sure, I reconfigured her servers and reinstalled some apps afterwards, but after reset, the update seemed to have been installed. Probably some glitch/compatibility with some boot sequence/script. I think if they try to flash with the old files, they may cause a bigger problem and then have no choice but to send it in. t this point, I think a hard reset and some patience it what it takes (it did take a little time to completely load after the reset, and sometimes it seemed like there was no hope, but it did eventually complete after some what appeared to be "lifelessness" Nothing to lose to try a hard reset and give it some time.

I assume you mean X5 and not z5. If you can't get it to work, then you may have to do a hard reset and start from scratch. See posts above your post for the link to the procedure for a hard reset.

Like allaboutbuzz tried to explain. You need to change the EPG from XML to Server. You can either do that from the SERVER screen, if you edit the server there is are 3 options at the bottom, one of them is for EPG Source. Change it from XML to SERVER. Otherwise you can do it directly from LiveTV, you can press MENU->SETTTINGS-CONFIGURATION and scroll down to GUIDE/EPG settings, and the first option is EPG Source. Change it to SERVER instead of XML.

When you say buzzTV 5 it works well, is it buzztv5 on the P6, or on another box ? When you are on the P6, did you check to see if the date/time is correct ? If that is not correct it will throw EPG way off.

Could be a chipset compatibility issue between the router and the device. Mesh devices can also be very temperamental with some devices, especially when you find yourself between 2 extenders and the extenders try to hand off from one to the other since they detect different signal strengths.

This topic should have been under the X5 section. This is the section for BuzzTV 5 which is the software running on the box. If your router uses only a single SSID for both 2.4 and 5Ghz bands, check to see if there is a way to split it. Companies call it different things, in some cases "band steering". That way the router tries to steer the connection to the best option, but this can also cause issue with some devices. Splitting it, you will have 2 different WiFi SSID, one for 2.4Gh and another for 5Ghz. 5Ghz is typically faster, but shorter range. 2.4Ghz is slower, but longer range, and very often more stable. What is your power key definition set to ? suspend, or shutdown ? Do yourself a favor and switch it to shutdown. Sure it takes an extra 30 seconds to boot, but you know you have a clean boot every time. suspend is not worth the potential headaches and instabilities cased by misbehaving drivers.

Not at home right now, but going from memory, I think there is an option for "decode and bitstream" under settings, no ?

Nice catch, I didn't even notice that. i would never format as internal. The day it fails, you will need to reset the box probably. And if you you ever want to extract files from the NVMe, you won't be able to.

Are you using the actual power supply which came with the P6, or using a power supply from an older Buzz box ? For the Audio through HDMI, try some of the following. Quick one go to settings->device preferences->Display and sound->Advance sound settings and select "None: Never use surround sound". And then see if that helps. If that doesn't help, you can put it back, and then try the following. settings->device preferences->Decode and Bitstream->Audio device and select "Decode" instead of passthrough. If the box/app tries to pass a stream to your soundbar which it does NOT know how to process, you will get nothing. With this option, the P6 will process it. I have not tried any NVMe drive yet. I do have a few new Kingston KC3000 drives and I think I still have an older Samsung 960 Pro lying around. I'll get around to plugging one in one of these days