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E2 ? WHY in the world would you want it to go to BuzzTV 6. Nice box, but I was even surprised they even updated it from BuzzV 4 to 5. I love BuzzTV 5, but the E2 worked a lot quicker with the lighter BuzzTV 4 so it was borderline on the edge of what should have been updated to BuzzTV 5 in my opinion. I could not even imagine "trying" to use it with BuzzTV 6.

Have you tried a hard factory reset ? Happened to a friend of mine on her Classic and she brought me it, and I did a hard reset and all is back. Here is the procedure, different device, but process is the same. Yes you will loose anything you installed on the box, but better than a box that does not work. https://stbtalk.com/topic/300-factory-reset-hard-reset-xr4500-xrs4500/

I like the windscribe vpn app, since it allows me to set it up to auto-connect upon booting the device. And you can even set it to route only specific apps, or exclude specific apps. So for now, on the P6, I have it set to auto connect to NY, and to only route PlutoTV through it so I can get the US content (which I prefer). I'm sure the weather app/widget will be fixed in the near future to reflect the connection, just like it does in the other home screens.

But even though the weather app still says Miramichi, when you are connected to Washington, does Pluto still show you stuff you'd expect in Washington, or still Canadian stuff ? I use windscribe and the weather app always shows Montreal on the P6 when using the BuzzTV 6 home screen. But Pluto will follow wherever I am connected to for VPN. Did a little digging and Yes, the weather app does now have the option to "Lock" location. but I don't think it works (at least not very aparrentl). IF you change home screens, it seems like on the other 4 home screens, the location does reflect the VPN location. But on the BuzzTV6 home screen it does not. I did not stay on it too long to see if it eventually refreshes, but it is obvious that the weather app in the BuzzTV 6 app, does not behave the same as in the other 4 Home screens, It is purely cosmetic obviously. Most people actually prefer to see their "non VPN" connected location, which is why the "lock" feature was introduced. But obviously in the case of the BuzzTV 6 home screen, it seems like it is always locked

When you say NOT working, can you provide more detail ? Does it not launch at all? Launches but not populated with anything ? Launches and populates, but when you hit "play" it does not start to play ? Some more details will go a long way to getting a better idea. And are you sure it is not a server issue ? Did you check using another app if you have available ? MAC/XC/M3U ? if it is XC, try creating another server entry (same portal/credentials) to see if it works.

Keep in mind, as listed in the description, that tunneled playback is NOT supported by all streams. So if you experience other playback issues, you may need to turn it off.

Well, I had my Classic disconnected since I had lent it to my sister and it was still on 20240202 fw. And Appinstaller was there. Did a factory reset, rebooted, and it was still there. Took the V20240927 update, and now Appinstaller is gone on my box also. So it is not an isolated case. Strange. Did another factory reset, and it cleaned up everything, including Disney+ and Netflix You no longer notice a message in the middle saying "installing yxyxyxyx" one after the other for the "preinstaled apps". But they are being installed in the background without any actual notice. I keep going into "All Apps" and backing out, and you do eventually see Netflix and Disney+ show up. I personally liked the dialog in the center after the first boot that would show you that it was installing apps, so you knew to just wait But Appinstaller is gone. Did hard and soft resets, no difference.

Same here.. I checked and all my boxes still have it. Actually maybe I'll check with my Classic. It is overdue for a reset , since I had lent it to my sister when she was in town on vacation this past summer Unless there was some sort of slight corruption during her last firmware update, which may explain the hanging. Anyhow, maybe I'll try doing a reset again on it this weekend. I'll back up her servers which I just reconfigured, and the apps are only 2 or 3, so no biggie. Few minutes max. Thanks

Just curious, was the "AppInstaller" app that used to be included been removed from the firmware images ? I have a friend who for some reason could no longer boot her Classic after the last firmware update. She brought me it today when I saw her, I brought it home and I could not get it to fully boot, it would go through the boot animations and all, go to the last logo, but then when it typically goes dark and then starts the Buzz Launcher, well it would stay dark. Tried deleting cache from recovery screen, param directory and cache, but made no difference. Decided to just do a factory reset and all came up as expected, and the latest firmware was already installed. However I went back to reinstall a few other typical apps, but noticed that AppInstaller was no longer listed under "All Apps". No big deal, I ended up using file browser to install the apps of my USB key, but I found it odd. For many of my non-techy friends, it was an easy way for me to send them apps when they needed, they'd downloadm out on USB and they could just use appinstaller very easily to install. I'm pretty sure it is still there on all my boxes, but possibly just there because it was left over from previously. If I factory reset those, it will probably vanish also. Anyhow was just curious.

I don't know about how it works if you have "Force max volume" on (since I have never tested it). But when you don't have force volume max on, when your BT headset pairs, and you use the Volume button on the remote, you will see a volume slider and (at least on older boxes), you even see small BT icon on the bottom to indicate that you are now controlling the BT volume.

Buzz boxes have NEVER updated the OS version on a box. You get a box with OS version "X" and it will remain as version "X" till the end. There is no OTA by buzz that has upgraded the OS. The BuzzTV app will be updated and in some cases it was upgraded from BuzzTV 4 to 5. All the extra features come primarily from the Software Hey there are Android 9, 11 and Android 13 boxes with pretty much all the same versions of BuzzTV 5. So WHAT will a new Android version bring anyone anyhow. It's a media box, there is no advantage to have a newer software. If anything, much of the existing software out there may have issues with newer OS.

Unfortunately, all the SD cards I have are relatively small, since I only use them for emergency flashing of boxes, instead of actual additional storage. I've always used relatively physically smaller sized USB keys, so they don't stick out much. My mom did not even realize I had one installed in her B5, until I pointed it out to her

Any reason uSD instead of a USB stick ? USB us cheap nowadays and they are tiny and pretty discreet, that they would barely be visible. https://shop.sandisk.com/en-ca/products/usb-flash-drives/sandisk-ultra-fit-usb-3-1?sku=SDCZ430-512G-G46 Speedwise I am not sure one would be faster than the other. We have no specs on the SD card slot class/speed. And the B5 is unfortunately limited to USB 2. Other boxes (other than the B5) do have a USB 3 port so they would have an advantage.

Well if "max" and "current" also says 2.3, then I have no clue what else to check. I no longer pay for Disney either, so I can't go any further, so I'm out.

Did you READ my message? I don't care about the version of the DISNEY app. If you launch the DRM info app on the P6, on the RIGHT hand side, it mentioned max level of HDCP supported (which is 2.3) and "current" HDCP version. What is the CURRENT. This will be dependant on the whole hardware loop you have (from box, any receiver/soundbar/to the TV). Even cable can affect it. The Disney app is picky. If it doesn't get reported all the proper DRM to ensure copy protection is in place, it will default to 1080.

If you check the DRM app, on the right what is your current version of HDCP ? "IF" I recall correctly, Disney+ app requires v2.2 for 4K (but I could be wrong). And you check the options to ensure it is not set to data saving or something ? I don't have a disney+ sub any more so just going from memory.

You have Disney+ Standard or premium Subscription ? And did you verify that the content you want is available in 4K ?

Don't discount modem, or even VPN. The crappy modems some ISP provide do have memory leaks, which can cause all sorts of strange behaviours. Also, many ISP are known to start throttling out of the blue or outright blocking certain destinations. My ISP every couple of months decides to block some servers. It's as if they are testing blocking techniques, and then 2 or 3 days later they re back to the way they were. VPN is to try to see if that is the case. Did you check on any other device (other box or even your phone) to see if the problem is not on the server end ?

Did you try using your spare router on his modem ?

Not saying it is the Dlink stuff, but just don't discount it. They are not what they used to be. And the fact that they release 1 maybe 2 firmware upgrades in the lifetime of a product (compared to ASUS who releases one every 3 months), doesn't say much for their product support. And it is easy to overlook something which should technically work and other stuff seems to work. If you have a spare old router, it might be worth bringing with you, just in case all other tests fail.

The Dlink router is always a suspect for me. Had a buddy buy a brand new Dlink router from costco, and within 3 weeks, his IPTV service had all sorts of glitches, even though everything else seemed to work fine.. I lent him my old spare ASUS router for him to test and all worked like a charm. Needless to say, it went back to costco real fast, and he picked up an ASUS one from another local shop.

First of all, posting actual portals or naming specific services is a no,no... Can you have them try with some other software just as a test, like "smarters" ? Just to see if it is a home networking issue ? If the account is confirmed active, and all modem/router rebooted, it can still be an ISP block (which VPN could help). Have they tried on thier home network to use thier phone and install smarters (available both on Android and from Apple store), and try to connect ? If they get error on thier phone also, they can stop assuming it is a box issue, and concentrate on their network. One issue I had a while back (and a friend had recently) was a bad Dlink switch. Yes, friends should not let friends buy dlink junk (they are not what they used to be 20+yrs ago). the switch had failed and it was affecting NOT only the stuff connected to it, but pretty much everything. Disconnected the Dlink switch and all worked like a charm.

Just curious, when you say stuck at the buzz emblem, how long did you give it ? Just asking, because I recently manually updated a different box and I thought it was bricked because it went through boot logo, boot animation and then stuck at buzz logo, for what seemed to be close to 3 or 4 minutes. 3 or 4 minutes can feel like a super long time when you are stuck staring at a screen doing nothing. But low and behold, after the 3 or 4 minutes, it started the initialization.

Is the SB connected via HDMI to the TV or box ? Try disabling any HDMI CEC options in the box. Settings->HDMI or something like that, I am not in front of my box now. The SB remote should not be able to control the Buzz box, unless HDMI CEC is configured and connected in a certain sequence. But that does mean that you will NOT be able to control the SB volume from the Buzz Box. What you can do, is disable "force max volume" on the Buzz box. Then set the sound bar to something like the 70% max volume position, and then use the volume on the buzz box (which should be variable) to control the volume. That is what I have done with my Mom's bose soundbar (don't recall model). So she never touches the soundbar volume. It is fixed at 70% of it's max volume setting, and then box just outputs a variable audio volume which comes through the soundbar. It's pretty much the same we used to do in the good old days when things were simple. Set the receiver to a fixed volume, and then control the TV variable volume level

Really bad luck I guess. I know it is just out of warranty, but you got nothing to lose by contacting cs @ Buzz.com and see what your options are. I've never had a buzz box fail on me yet.