Emporium

Not sure MicroSD is your best option for TS. USB 3 is the best option for throughput. There is no mention on what standard the MicroSD card has been designed around, so no idea of speeds, and access times. Decent USB3 sticks are not that expensive nowadays. And you don't need anything HUGE anyhow. A small 32GB stick would be plenty. And like Ryu mentioned, makes sure to use the BLUE port (USB3), not the black one (which is only USB2).

Try rebooting both your Modem and/or Router. Even if it all seems fine, you should try it. And try to contact your reseller to see if there is any known issue with the service, or if you account has been flagged maybe.

FYI: BuzzTV 5 is not BETA any more. Has been out of beta for quite some time. I understand you only purchased it 2 years ago, but it was not a recent box then either. The xrs4500 has been around since at least early 2020, so the model is over 3yrs old now. Not saying it is a bad box (I have one also and still works great), it is just that as services offer more and more content, without any server side filtering, it takes longer for them to process the playlists and load the EPGs. I have multiple boxes. I have the X5, the U5, The Classic, etc... Those are the latest gen boxes. I like the X5, but I often recommend the Classic for most friends and family, since it is the best bang for the buck in my opinion. Same processor as the X5, comes with USB-C power input (like many of the new boxes), and includes a BT-250 airmouse remote which is similar to the older ones. BTW: You can't roll back once you upgrade to 5 (not as far as I know).

On Channel list, yes, you can hide any categories you want. When you press OK and you are in the channel list (not the EPG), I believe it is the Green button to "organize categories". This will allow you to HIDE categories (check color legend on bottom of screen - I think it is yellow to show/hide categories). And even select and move categories around to change the order (select category with "OK" button, and then press Blue button to move it (then use DPAD up/down to move the category). Even though my provider has dozens of categories, I only have 10 or so visible since that is all I use and care about. No point in keeping language categories visible when I don't speak or understand the language. I don't know if VOD has anything similar, and I am not in front of my box right now to check. But LiveTV and VOD are 2 different entities. Filters you enable on one, will not affect the other.

Maybe try clearing the cache of the BuzzTV5 app. But truth is that the 4500 is a last generation box, and many services are exploding in terms of the number of movies and channels they are including. It's a god thing for the users, but it also needs a little more power to process the extra info. I have seen many services that have 10k+ channels with all sorts of international offerings, etc... now asking users to choose categories they want, instead of just including everything. I have seen some services that on some entry level boxes (like the B5) take upwards of 45 seconds to parse the channel list.

YOU ONLY need to post the same question once. Please check your other thread. This thread should be closed. Thank you.

With the standard remote that comes with the box, you can't search for special characters. This is where the ARQ series remotes would come in handy. They have a keyboard on the back side, which would work. If you have a computer keyboard (wired or wireless), you can also use that. I just tried it with a basic dell usb keyboard and the search field DOES accept the "&" or any other character. https://buzztvglobal.com/en-ca/products/buzztv-arq-200-revolutionary-remote-control

There is not much at the moment that the Buzz box can do to solve this issue. Maybe in some future update there could be a feature added to search only through a specific category (assuming the foreign language films are in a category of their own). Or maybe sort results by category (as an option). But right now, it searches ALL VOD. You can maybe check with your provider. Maybe they have an option to disable certain categories/languages (all depends how they have them bundled). It is always nicer when all languages and sub tracks are encoded/multiplexed into a single mkv file. That way single file to support multiple languages. I do that for many of the movies in my personal library (at least for the subtitles). I prefer movies in their original language audio, but I always download and multiplex the subs for 3 languages (to accommodate my parents and friends who may want a copy).

You may not find the exact same pinout (since there is no standard), but as long as the Ground is in the same place (first from base of connector), rest is childs play. Good luck.

Just for clarity, this is what I mean by my last comment (connector too long): One on left is too long. One on right is the one that I am actually using.

OK.. I just pulled the cable from my TV and buzzed it out (no pun intended) Obviously took into consideration WHICH colors I was using for Video Most importantly, I found the portion closest to the base of the jack is Ground (connected to the outside of each RCA connection), then followed by Video. Then the 2 tips, I can't comment which is left/right, but that is for sure no biggie. The WDTV is GRLV (from base of connector towards tip). When cable connected to my Buzz, the Red is my Video cable, so Buzz is either GVRL or GVLR (Base to tip). Either way, at least you know where the ground is, which is the most important (something I overlooked on my first comment of this thread). Hope this helps you make the correct decision. Not sure dollar store cables even list the pinout unless it is some good quality overstock they are liquidating Just be carefull that the 3.5mm connector is not too long. I have one which the base (ground) is quite a bit longer than the usual (don't even recall where I got it). So it makes it VERY tricky to use. IT works, but you can't insert it all the way.. Need to insert and then pull it a mm or 2. If you get it off a little you get audio humm... The WDTV cable was perfect (except for the order of the VRL connectors, but that was simple swap.

Exactly what I was going to recommend. Something like this is not too expensive and you can plug the HDMI from the Buzz box to it, and it will output the composite to the TV. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09MKL1BLB And in this case (amazon canada), it is fulfilled by amazon, so if it doesn't work, it can easily be returned.

For M3U supplier will typically provide you 2 URL. One for playlist and one for the epg. They would be in the form of (note, your username and password are hardcoded as part of the URL): Playlist: http:// yourserver.xyz/get.php?username=yourusername&password=YourPassword&type=m3u&output=m3u8 EPG: http:// yourserver.xyz/xmltv.php?username=yourusername&password=YourPassword Now, if the supplier only gave you a single URL and a username/password odds are, it is an XC api type login. So you can set it up using XC.

I have 2 X5 units and they are both rock solid and stable. Maybe you just got a defect. It can happen, even with the best of devices. I'm sure Buzz will take care of it.

Lol.. I forgot to even check my XPL3000 box...Oh well.

You mention that you bought this for "pause rewind forward". Where ALL you tests above with external media installed and TS enabled ? Or just plain vanilla, nothing installed or enabled yet ? Sorry to ask, but I did not see any mention of one way or another in the thread. With incompatible external media, TS enabled can cause all sorts of freezing and hanging.

I don't have the order, but I'm using on of those adapters on my E2, connected to an old TV. However even if you don't get the pinout order, it doesn't really matter too much. I used one I had lying around from some other device, I "think" my old WDTV Live, and all I did was plug it in, and then connect a cable to the composite video of the TV, and then cycle through the 3 connectors and see which one produced video It's not like you will be unplugging and plugging it back on a regular basis (and even if you did, after doing it once, you could label the output cables). I could tell you that it is NOT mapped in the same order as the WDTV Live, since I am pretty sure I used the white audio connecter for Video. And obviously the other 2 were audio (just using one since the TV only has 1 audio input. No biggie.

ISPs sometimes buy some address ranges from other companies. And when they do, it can sometimes take a while for all the records to change over to reflect the new owners/locations. I know many years ago, my ISP at the time (here in Canada) had expanded rapidly and bought a few address ranges from another ISP south of the border (in the US). For about 6 months, if I checked my location, it always stated that I was in the US Took a few months before it was finally sorted out. Nothing I could do. Try going to the website below, and ensure to agree to location permission (if asked), and you will see quite a few details about your IP. Where it thinks it is located, the hostname, a proxy IP if ISP uses one (otherwise will be your IP), the ISP it is registered to, etc... And if you click on the [Details] next to IP location, it will show you the info provided by various database providers for the IP. https://www.iplocation.net/

Have you tried changing the video stream type (M3U, TS, HLS, ...) ? Try switching to HLS.. live tv/menu/settings/configuration bottom of the menu.

There hasn't been any update on the 4500 in quite a while, so it is obviously not related to any changes on the buzz side. Did you try rebooting your router/modem ? I know many say "everything else works", but many times it is strange states of the router. Also, have you tried with a VPN connection (some ISPs are starting to add block lists and throttling lists). Other option would be to go through the apps in settings, and clearing the Cache. Have you checked on another box (on your network), to confirm it is not real-debrid itself, a routing issues to real-debrid servers, or a DNS server issue ? PS: This will be the last reply to this topic, since this is a BuzzTV support site, and in this case, it is NOT anything to do with the BuzzTV software on the BuzzTV box. This is NOT the right forum for support on 3rd party apps (even if they are on a Buzz box). There are other sites/forums you can discuss 3rd party app issues.

Unfortunately most all-in-one modem/routers provided by the ISP are usually not that great for WiFi (even here in North America). They are super basic and are barely up to the job. The setting you are looking for, would be under the "Wireless settings". There is nothing WiFi in the settings you posted above. It would something with the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands. Having said that, I myself have a more commercial grade setup at home ,but even then, for most of my media boxes ,I always have them wired, it is just more stable.

What router are you using ? Does your router allow you to disable "band steering" (some call it differently). Basically to allow you to separate 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz band, instead of allowing the router to announce one SSID and have it decide what to use.

Pretty sure that option is not on the current public release (5.0.799) yet Typically if a channel has Catchup available on the server, if you try to go back a few minutes or whatever, it uses the Catchup option. Enabling this option forces the system to ignore the Catchup stream and use the TS buffer on your external media instead (like for all other channels that don't have catchup).

Quote from new context sensitive help which will be available in upcoming buzztv 5 updates: "Force the use of Time Shift on LiveTV channels with built-in Catch up"

That just proves that the Buzz IR is just awesome !!! No other IR remotes are that good. For the pairing, I found that sometimes you need to put the remote into pairing, then go into the remote menu. It should see the remote at that time, and if you select it, it should say pairing/connecting...But I find if I leave it continue, it will sometimes timeout. But if while it is saying that it is pairing, I hit OK, it works If that does not work, you can try doing a factory reset on the remote: Hold the D-Pad Down button and the 0 (Zero) button for 4 seconds until it blinks 3 times.