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Also keep in mind that on the 5 series devices (AndroidTV 11), they are on an AndroidTV platform. Do not confuse it with a standard Android platform as in a phone and tablet. Many app devs create their apps for generic Android, and therefore their apps, even if can be sideloaded, will not work well on Android TV, since the dev has created the UI and assumes use of a touch screen and not a remote. This is a developers issue, not a buzz box issue. It's up to the developers to create an AndroidTV version of their app. One good example is the Windscribe VPN client. You can install the Android version on any buzz box. It'll work, but it is cruel to try to use it with a remote, and you will need to often use the "mouse cursor" option on the remote. BUT, if you install the AndroidTV version (which they have - and listed on their site for devices like an nvidia shield), then that version is quite well done, and optimized for use on an AndroidTV platform with a remote. So if the dev has only created their android app with phones and tablets in consideration, then you need to keep your expectations in check when you try to use them on an AndroidTV platform. Don't blame buzz for app developer's oversight.

Truth is, you don't even need hex editor. It is a just a zip file with a yaml file internally, which is effectively just a text file, easily viewable even with notepad .

OK let's start by stating, WHAT firmware version are you running (should be in the updates screen V202xxxxxx). Also what version of Buzztv software are you running (from live TV, if you click on menu, you should see it at the bottom of the screen (5.0.xxx). Secondly, item #1 and #6 contradict each other. #1 says that trying to backups you can't see the disk and SD card. #6 says that backup and restore is not there. I can tell you that for Android 9 boxes, you will NOT have the option to backup to SATA HDD or MicroSD. It backs up to internal and you should use a file manager tool to copy to any location you prefer. Also, Are you using a traditional mechanical HDD or an SSD ? I strongly recommend you use an SSD intead of mechanical. Traditional mechanical drives will generate a lot of heat (especially in enclosed area). This will throttle the CPU (which will slow it down and buffer), and eventually get it to act up. Also, don't try to use a MicroSD card. They were never designed for the kind of writes a PVR will do, and thy will fail prematurely.

The problem is probably made worse by the fact that the E2 is an older box and a little underpowered for some VPN protocols. Some VPN protocols are also heavier than others. If you decide to install the latest vpn client from your provider, experiment by changing between protocols. Since they do encryption, they can be taxing on the cpu, and therefore they can vary lot from one protocol to the other (openvpn, wireguard, ikev2, etc..) in terms of how resource intensive they can be.

Has this been happening for a while, or is it worse this weekend ? This weekend many ISP are trying real hard to block and throttle due to the superbowl. And I know many services which were buffering like crazy tonight. If you try with and without VPN and the issue does not change, then maybe it is time to backup you servers/favorites. Ensure the backup file is on a USB stick (because I believe by default that box would try to backup internally). Then do a full factory reset, restore your servers/favorites, and try again. Here is a link for hard resetting an xrs4000 (replace xx with tt), but procedure is exactly the same on the E2. I know it may sound drastic, but it may be quicker and less frustrating than trying all sorts of stuff and not getting any results. hxxps://youtu.be/1TKa88hjjrg

And if you have Timeshift enabled, try disabling it.

Who are you calling snarky and an idiot ? Just trying to understand. Other than pure factual posts, I don't see any other posts above BTW: Degrading wifi chipsets are on piles of devices. I had 2 ASUS routers, who's 2.4Ghz radios both went dead. One was still under warranty and replaced by ASUS (painful process, but was the principle). And piles of laptop who's internal wifi have failed. It happens.

Like nbs said, there is nothing wrong with the 4000 for wifi (unless yours is defective). It's just no matter what box you have, wired is always better than wireless. The box is quite capable of running other apps also (which I won't mention here, since this is a buzz forum). It's just that it has the Buzztv software embedded at it's core, since that is what most people prefer to use.

I have a few friends that use the TP-Link AV1000 powerline adapter kits, and love them. No matter what you do, a wired connection is preferred over Wifi anyhow. There is nothing that can guarantee you that the onboard wifi is even replaceable. A TP-Link AV1000 kit is about $70 on amazon and worst case, if it doesn't help you or doesn't work because of some strange electrical setup in your home, you can always return it obviously. But this will eliminate the WiFi completely, and it would be a wired connection, which would give you the best connection possible anyhow. And no you can't uninstall buzztv5. It is part of the guts of all Buzztv boxes. That is the whole point of getting a buzztv box. Otherwise you can just use a generic android box.

I agree with Ryu. A small wireless bridge or Powerline adapter (and plug ethernet to the box) would probably be the best option.

Hence why I always prefer everything to be wired, instead of wireless, except for stuff like remotes, phones and tablets.. Even ethernet, I spend quite a while when I bought my home (over 25yrs ago) to run 2x CAT 5 (best reasonably available at the time) from the utility room to ever room in the house. Best thing I ever did and no need to rely on wifi. And most accessories go through HDMI, optical, or even just basic RCA cable for the older stuff. Don't forget that anything wireless (including BT), can be adversely affected if you have them too close to the wall (or enclosed in a cabinet), due to reflections. And the 2.4Ghz space is very congested with many devices using that range.

When you start your own thread, since this one is not yours and your question has nothing to do with the initial topic. And do a little reading, Disney+ has been discussed many times and how to get and install the latest apk.

That is probably due to the encoding by your service provider. Probably some very non-standard type of encoding. Keep in mind however that there some features that are ONLY available on the Primary player. But if the backup one works for you, then great. Next time, you should also mention what type of sub you have (MAC or XC [user/pass] or M3U). And if it is XC, you should specify the stream type (it is in the config screen under settings - HLS, Auto, etc..). Very often it is just the stream type that needs to be changed. Just some food for thought.

Is this 2 different remotes, or the same remote ? Pretty sure the remote will only pair with one box. Pair with a second box and it will no longer connect to the other box. Have you checked out the manual for the BT-250 ? To start pairing process, you need to press and hold the "OK" button and "VOL -" for 3 seconds. hxxps://buzztv.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/BT-250_Manual_V1.1.pdf Keep in mind that for TV functions to work, CEC needs to be enabled and TV needs to be compatible also. If the CEC does not work with your TV, you can still program the Basic TV functions (power, source, vol+, vol-) with the IR learning functions (using your original remote to then have the bt-250) learn the IR codes to use. It is IR, but then again, most TV remotes are also.

This is strange. I have my own m3u list with piles of public streams, and have no issue recording (ads and all). I used to do it all the time. Is this only one specific channel or all of them ? Is this something like pluto channels ? Which can sometimes change streams during ads ?

Dishuser was the one who mentioned the "USB TS on" option.. I just explained "why" you need to.

TS is NOT on in blue in the picture above.. It is "gray" as in disabled (like the "REC" option). If it was Blue, the text on it would be "white" (in the the "single EPG" button below that line. "mo usb ts is off" ? Please explain. You will notice that the channel you are on, is a channel with Catchup (from the icon to the left of the "TS"). In that case, to force the box to use the Buzz "TS" feature, you need to select the "force usb ts" to on. If you check the "help text" that is on the right when you go to that option under the PVR Options page, you will see it says "Force the use of Time Shift on Live TV Channels with built-in Catch Up". And if TS was ON, the timeline which is now in blue under the image, would be white to show the available TS buffer (correction: actually that is only once you "try" to rewind).

Before going any further, you should post your firmware version V202xxxxxxxx (easily found on update screen) and Software version 5.0.xxx (easily found same place, or at bottom of the menu).

Glad it worked for you... But you didn't need to bump a 6 month old thread

You've asked that question 4 times in the last 24hrs.. If there was a definitive answer, someone would have answered. I honestly don't see what difference it makes. The point is, that it will be expandable and faster than a standard 2.5" SATA SSD. Probably an M.2 NVMe, but will it allow up to 2280, or be limited to 2242 or 2260, no one knows yet, or even if they know they are probably bound under an NDA. We will only find out when they decide it is time for us to be let in on the secret If it is an M.2 NVMe, I hope there is a little room to accommodate a heatsink, since some of these can get quite hot. One thing I'd love to see on BuzzTV 6, is the option to mount network shares and use them as recording destinations.

We will have to wait and see. This is all the details that have been made available for now. https://stbtalk.com/topic/13916-tease-image/?do=findComment&comment=32051

If you are wired as per your diagram I don't see how this will work. Your Buzz box ethernet is NOT going back to the router LAN side so the MOCA it is connected to is not really on the LAN. Cable coming in would typically go to modem, then to router, which can feed the computer you have, but then another line would typically go back to splitter to feed the MOCA network devices. This is more inline with how I would expect it to be connected.

Just as a small test, can you "try" to stream something off the integrated youtube app. Doesn't have to be anything high def. I just tried my X5, and I even unpaired all my speakers and connected my Plantronics PLT Focus headset only, and just used VLC to stream "The Batman" of my Synology RS2418+ and for over 10 minutes, it was solid. If you play a video and use the TV speakers (HDMI source), is the Audio smooth, or is it also stutter ? I do not have KODI installed on my buzz boxes and honestly retired KODI ages ago from all my boxes. No clue what other codecs it may be installing which may be conflicting with AndroidTV. I typically use VLC, Plex or DS Video when streaming from any of my Synology NAS servers. Are you by any chance right next to your WiFi router ? the 2.4Ghz band can cause interference on any BT. So if you are too close, or in an area with some 2.4Ghz congestion it may have an adverse affect. Did you ever try the BT, before loading up all your apps like KODI ? I know it sounds drastic, but if nothing else helps, I would probably do a pin/factory reset and start from scratch. And before starting to install anything else, I would use VLC (which is preinstalled) to test streaming from the NAS, or even just youtube to see if any streaming can be smooth over BT. Forgot to ask, HOW far are these speakers ? Don't expect those theoretical crazy ranges in BT whitepapers.. Those are in open air (maybe even vacuum( with ZERO obstacles. Realistic, don't expect solid stream for any distance more than 20' to 25' after 20' it will be prone to occasional drops. On my laptop I have a high end USB plantronics USB Bluetooth dongle, on a USB extension, running up the back of my monitor mount to be high up above the back of my monitors (so I can walk around when in meetings without loss of signal). If I get 15' away and start waking up the stairs it starts to get choppy already.

Can you please post the firmware version you are presently running on your box. If you go to the settings, Update option, you should see the firmware version typical V202XXXXXXX When you say they are all downloaded, are the downloaded to the internal storage of the box ? Onto USB external drive or usb stick ? Or onto a NAS ? Also, have you ever tried any live streaming, using the BuzzTV 5 app to see if the problem is also present when you use the native IPTV app ?

I have a really old Anker Soundcore speaker paired to one of my x5 units, and I have no issues with it. Works pretty well. I have this one: hxxps://www.amazon.ca/dp/B016XTADG2 In the past I have also paired a few cheap BT earbuds, and they have been pretty decent. Have you tried unpairing the speakers and repair them ? Sometimes when pairing it asks you to give permission to access your contacts, etc... I find that on some boxes if you decline this request, the audio can be glitchy for some reason. You mention Kodi. Have you ever tried with any of the BuzzTV 5 apps ? or VLC ?