Emporium

I had the same reaction initially I think he meant that he updated to BuzzTV 5. Not to the new BuzzTV B5 box

I have an USB 3 adapter like the one in the picture below. They work like a charm for Sata 2.5" HDD and SSD. A have a few of them which were freebies ages abo with some retail boxes Intel SSD drives I had purchased. Typically only need to connect the usb3 connectors, but they are handy for those devices that need JUST a little more juice since you can also plug in the second connector to any other port to get a little more power. For WD Blue, they have always been on the low end for WD. Many OEM use them, but that only because of the price point. I have not tried their SSD products, but back in the days where Dell was using WD Blue HDD in all their PCs, they were nothing but headaches. I used to remove them and replace them with enterprise class Seagate constellation drives back then. The WD blue which I would not replace, would rarely last more than a year of 24/7 use. WD on their other series, I have not had too many issues with WD Black, Red, and even Gold in some NAS units. For NVMe drives, I typically stick with samsung, micron, and in some rare cases crucial (but rare). For external drives, I had purchased a while back a number of LaCie d2 Quadra 4TB USB3, externally powered drives. They are bulky, but at the time I had gotten a good deal and needed a few as secondary backups, so I picked some up. And they use a triple interface (USB3, eSATA and Firewire 800), and since they have their own 12V power adapter they are not dependant on device to provide power. Guess time for some trial and error testing.

Don't expect miracles with SP products. No offence to you, but they are trash. You get what you pay for with those. I've had so many of them go bad and be super flaky many years ago, they I stopped buying brands like SP, Adata, etc.. Just not worth the headaches. The compatibility issues are notorious with many of these brands. I don't know what brand enclosure you have, but they can also be hit and miss. I've had good luck with Orico, Ugreen and Sabrent models for external enclosures. But that is not to say that each of them does not have some crappy models also. Recently I was even lookng for a PCIe Nvme adapter for 2 PCs I have, and I think I went through 4 different brands/models before I found one which was stable enough under load.

I keep my m3u files on my google drive account and edit them there to add/modify as I please. That way I can easily access them from any box (when I am home or not home). And to make it easy to remember for when I want to access them and not remember the long url path, I have a bit.ly account and have it pointing to the google drive direct shortcut.

Sorry.. Thread is named "200 Series" and link provided by Ryu in first post takes you to the whole 200 Series page, which includes the 200, 220 and 250. But no worries. 250 will go specifically in 250 thread Should probably add folder for the "200 Series" under Remotes, and then have subfolders for each model under that if we want to keep it clean. Right now, this is all under the ARQ100 folder.

I have a few versions of the MX3 remote clones which are very similar to these (maybe even identical). I never got the MIC to work on any device (I have tried on a few Buzz boxes, Beelink boxes and even my Mii Box 3 units). Never tried it on a PC though. I really didn't care, since I am a little old school for that. I tried them only out of curiosity. I even turn off the voice commands on my phone, since it annoys me, Even though the remote looks nearly identical to the MX3 clones, it seems like Buzz has customized it for themselves. A few buttons have been renamed/relocated, and looks like they have removed/disabled the IR programmable keys, and relabelled the buttons with the way they have probably want them to work with their boxes (to match the mapping they probably expect. If you really want some sort of manual, this one would be pretty close since it is a generic manual for these remotes (Standard, Standard with Mic, Backlight, Backlight with Mic) https://www.canton-distribution.ro/index.php?route=product/product/download&pdf=970&document_id=2332 But keep in mind that the buzz remote has been customized, so the "learning" features are probably disabled since they have probably been preprogrammed to work with Buzz boxes. It's a simple 2.4Ghz airmouse style remote. I don't understand, what you expect from a manual for this. Is it some specific feature/option you are looking for, or that needs clarification ?

That was one of "my" most appreciated features, since I really did not like the PGdn/PGup button on the bottom corners. It was a little inconvenient. I have gotten so used to the CH+/CH- acting as PG+/PG- when you are in channel listing mode and epg mode. I also found that it was a little non-intuitive before, to have CH+ (up on the CH rocker button) scroll down on the channel listing (since they are typically in ascending order from top/down). and then CH- (down on the rocker button) scroll upwards on the listing. Maybe I am just wired differently

Bluetooth has nothing to do with this remote (as explained above). Keep in mind that the IR100 only has 2 programmable buttons. TV Power, and Source (on the top left) which are surrounded by a white rectangle. Are you using the TV Power, or the STB Power in the sequence you tried ? Here is a nice illustrated article showing the steps. https://stbtalk.com/index.php?/topic/644-how-to-program-tv-power-source-key-button/

Isn't that the same as the usual Buzz remotes ? That was a welcome change from a while back. No ?

And were they using the right power supply ? Or did they just plug in the power supply from an old box they were replacing ?

It is "NOW" showing up as storage, or did you want to say "NOT" showing up as storage ? If it is NOT showing up as storage, then please check your power supply. I have had many people that I recommended the box to who have complained to me, and nearly 90% of them, it is because they just unplugged their older Buzz box and plugged in the U5. Be careful. The U5 (and the xrs4900) come with and use a 12V power supply. All other boxes use 5V. With a 5V power supply, the U5 will power up and seem to work, but you will not have all the required power to spin up the HDD, so you NEED to use the power supply you got with the U5, you can't use the 5V ones used by other boxes. BUT Be careful not to plug the 12V power supply back into other buzz boxes. Let us know.

There is nothing to sync. Fresh batteries, and point the remote to the box and it should work. IR is line of sight. When you press buttons, do you see the LED light up ? If you can't power up your box, try just unplugging and plugging it back it to power it on, and see if the remote responds for anything else (other than power).

The BT-250 remote uses a different concept that the BT300/400 remotes (it is similar to the IR100/IR200/BT100/BT200 remotes). The buttons on the top that you see in the image below that are surrounded with a BLUE line are IR learning buttons. On the 100 series remotes you only have 2 buttons (TV power, and source), on the 200 series remotes, you have 4 buttons (TV Power, TV source, TV VOL+ and TV VOL-). The programming is primitive, but it works well. You put the remote in learn mode, you press the button you want to program, then you take your original remote, point it to the front (IR) of the buzz remote and you press it for it to learn it. In reality, you can program them all to do what you want. If you don't care for the "TV source" button, you can program it to be "TV mute" if you want. On my BT200 I have programmed the VOL buttons in reverse. VOL- I programmed as VOL+ and vice versa. You may think it is nuts, but I have a preference and I'm used to having VOL+ to the right of a VOL- button. So regardless of what the buttons say, muscle memory will always click the right button to increase volume, and left button to decrease I don't have a Roku TV, so I can't confirm 100% that it will work with your IR remote, but I don't see why not. I have a small 20+yr old Audiovox LCD TV (one of the first). I could never get any universal remote (I tried piles of URC, OneForAll, RCA, etc.. ) remotes and none had a code which worked for this TV (never tried a harmony). But I managed to use the original remote (which still partially works) and programmed a Buzz IR200 remote with the power button for the TV, and Volume controls (don't need the source button). Keep in mind that if your TV needs more than a single keypress to cycle through "input sources", then the source button will be useless for that purpose. ie: if your TV requires you to click on a button to bring up the sources, then use a d-pad to select the source you want and then possibly even require you to hit OK before it switches, then it will not work. This TV source button is for TVs that use a single discrete code to cycle through the various input sources. If you want, check out my post in another thread, I posted a manual for the BT-250 in PDF format. You will see how the process goes about to program the learn keys. https://stbtalk.com/index.php?/topic/5646-bt-250-remote/&do=findComment&comment=18958 I've seen the sofabaton remotes. They look nice (and with the end of the harmony remotes they are pretty much the best option), but they are not cheap. They will cost as much as the buzz box itself I don't know if they support the buzz boxes, but I am sure they would be open to add support if they had the codes needed.

I would love to get rid of the music on the boot animation on the StreamPro G1. A small patch which could be installed from recovery mode (to disable the boot audio) would be awesome Turning the box on late at night and forgetting to mute the TV first, will wake up the whole house. I honestly prefer no sound. It was the first thing I appreciated when I upgraded from my older xpl3000 (which I loved - and as DU mentioned was a buzztv2 box).

Go my B5 today. Plugged it in for a quick test and all I can say is that it is now my default recommended go to box for anyone on a super tight budget. When I had seen the specs I was not expecting to be impressed at all. But surprisingly, it feels quicker than my E2 (which on paper has a better CPU - even though it is also a budget box). I only tested with a wired ethernet connection, and with a regular 1080p monitor (nothing fancy). The unit powered up pretty quickly. Got the usual setup screens we are all used to on buzz (language, timezone, screen resolution, ...). Then when it goes to launch screen for the first time, it then installs a bunch of other software (netflix, disney+, etc..) so just give it a few minutes. I then disconnected the wired connection for a few seconds to see if it could connect to my wifi and it worked without an issue (as expected). But I prefer wired, so switched back after that. Then I created an entry for my server and away I went on LiveTV. Considering the hardware and lower specs, I was very impressed with the speed of the unit. I thought it would be an exercise in patience (since I'm used to the X5 and my xrs4900), but on the contrary I was impressed. Snappy channel changes and pretty clear image. I installed a bunch of 3rd party apps to see if they work. For the most part there were no issues. However there were 1 or 2 apps where I found navigation using the remote seemed a little odd and misbehaving. But I will run a few more tests on the weekend and compare with the other boxes (x5 and u5) to see if it is just the app that are misbehaving, or something else. I will have more time next week to do a more complete testing of it, using a few more servers and other features. Bottom line, first impressions are pretty impressive for a budget box.

Have you checked to see that it is not your provider ? Was it working before ? I was using VOD and TV series earlier, and they seemed to work for me and my provider.

@Buzzed- FYI, should be fixed in the latest update. I don't have servers that have that many channels, but you can certainly try it out.

I had created a small test M3U playlist with 6 channels in it (public streams), for testing subtitles. But in your case, since you say Nothing works, it is worth trying to see if these streams work. On your box, go to menu, settings, server settings, M3U and add an M3U playlist. You can call it "subtest" and use the the url I provided you (in PM) (it is case sensitive). If it works and you connect, you will see a list of 6 channels (4 english and 2 french). I tested them on my 4500 using the latest update 5.0.788. Both players (primary and backup) seem to work. But Primary a little better than the backup one (it's just cleaner the way it shows subtitles), but they both work. Let me know if this works. I know MANY servers have been having issues, due to ISP blocks imposed during the world cup games. Some are worse hit than others. At least with this M3U list, we will know if the box is able to stream. If this works, then it may be an ISP issue. I've had many customers complain with some services. So far in some cases the only option has been to use a VPN service to bypass ISP restrictions.

FYI: If you prefer a "manual" with a summary of the programming and pairing instructions, I have attached a PDF I threw together, which is based on the BT-200. Pretty sure the process is the same. BT-250 Remote.pdf

The only buttons that are programmable on this remote are the 4 buttons at the top (TV Power, Input selection, VOL+, and VOL-). And in reality, they are just "learning buttons", so you need your original remote to program them. Pretty sure the instructions here, can be used. Instructions are mostly for the BT100, but you can repeat the same instructions to program the VOL+ and VOL- buttons. But keep in mind that these buttons are for IR only, so you will need to point to your TV (like with your original remote - you will not suddenly have bluetooth features on your TV).

So you say that the unit can't stream well over network your bluray collection (which in my opinion tells me there is something wrong with your network setup). I stream 25GB and 30GB files without issue from my Synology NAS (U5 and my Synology have Gigabit Link - and I'm wired). But if the HDD is connected to the U5, how is anything going to appear on it ? You want to use the HDD (assuming it is shareable) as a download location for Jellyfin ? Or would you be manually transferring stuff to it from your windows PC ? If you will be doing it manually, you can initiate the transfer from the buzz box, using something like solidexplorer which has access to windows shares. And the split screen view also makes it very easy to transfer files from a network share, to a local drive. Now I have seen cases where Jellyfin and even Plex are really dumb with some media played over network. I run both Plex and Jellyfin servers in parallel on my synology NAS, and I find in some cases, Plex client will play funny with some media, and other times Jellyfin client will (neither one or the other is perfect). In those cases, I just launch solidexplorer on my buzz, browse to my media directory on my NAS, and will click and launch the media either through VLC or MX Player, and they play perfectly fine without the plex/jellyfin overhead. And I hate transcoding, so that is not even something I would consider. Bottom line, no, the buzz boxes do NOT have an SMB server included, since that was never the intention. If you want to experiment with 3rd party SMB servers, you are welcome to do so obviously. Not sure however if they need any special kernel modules included (like on some linux distributions). I have tried many different android boxes and other than the shield, I have not seen any of them that offer that option.

Out of the box, NO it will not share the drive to the network. The Buzz box acts as a host, and can access local and network drives, but will not share it's drive. In order for any android box to share any of its drives/directories, you need to find and use some 3rd party Samba sever. I have not tested it on any buzz box. Either way, not sure it would be of much use (other than to transfer files to it as a media library). For accessing the files (like VOD/PVR recordings) it would be close to useless since the naming convention used for the files has no human meaningful pattern. The filenames are "crtyptic" to the average user and pretty sure all the metadata (which matches up files with EPG or other info), is stored in some other xml or other file elsewhere on the device.

I'm assuming you already tried to clear the BuzzTV 5 cache ?

Like other asked, what Software version are you running ? I just tried it on both of my xrs4900 (running 5.0.788) and worked fine. I have one "button record enabled", and when I press the red button, I get a quick message at the bottom about the stream, then the info panel (channel info) appears, you see the REC icon in the info bar, and then when the info bar disappears (2 or 3 seconds later), the red REC icon on top right appears.

Are you using CEC ? If so, as a test, try disabling CEC. Settings->Device Preferences->Display and Sound->HDMI CEC And turn off both options. This will avoid the TV from forcing a shutdown on the HD5 itself, when the TV is turned off. You can test it by turning off the TV, and noticing if the HD5 remains on. If this works, then you should be able to turn off the HD5 (using the remote), and it should record as scheduled. Just doing this to ensure that it is not the TV/CEC that is interfering with the box from waking up/recording.