Emporium

That;s not pairing. That's just an IR learning function. You basically put it in learning mode, select the key you want to program and point your existing remote to it (IR to IR) and it will learn the code to be able to play it back. When I first did the learning on mine, I swapped the VOL+ and VOL- buttons during the learning feature, since I naturally thoguht VOL- would be on the left, and VOL+ on the right. But you can honestly program them to ANY key you want. I programmed the "source" key to be my TVs SLEEP button I never use the source key, since the STB is all I have on the TV, and the sleep button is handy since it is in my bedroom, and it turns TV off after a preset amount of time.

There is no pairing with an IR200... It is an IR remote, not BT. Just point and use (assuming the U5 has an IR receiver). Unless you are referring to an the BT200.

It's on the last page of the 4900 user manual (because we all read them) https://buzztv.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/BuzzTV-XRS4900-Manual.pdf

To do a hard reset, you need to unplug the unit, press the reset button gently until you hear it click, and as you are pressing and holding the reset button, you need to plug the power. Here is a small video I found which shows you what you need to do. It is for a newer model, but the process is the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9l1x3KJl_jE

Just curious, is it just the Bluetooth not working, or the IR also ? Have you tried using a keyboard/mouse to go to menus and unpair the BT100 bluetooth from the unit ? Try also cycling the Bluetooth. For the IR, you can use your cell phone camera, and point the front of the remote towards it, and press a button to see if the IR is working. Most cell phone cameras do not filter IR light sp you should see it light up

You can either email them at the address below, or use the link right below it.. cs@buzztv.com https://buzztv.com/site/main-contact/

On the 4900, I found that the BT200 is a great remote, but a little bit power hungry if you have the backlight on. I was changing batteries quite often when I had backlight on all the time. I have since turned it off, and batteries last for ages. Even recently (about 2 weeks ago), my batteries were really low (didn't know it at the time), and I was in the dark, so turned on the backlight to check something, and I was stuck.. Pressing any button after that would trigger the backlight, but then it would flash off, since batteries were too low, and could not even change volume. Worst part, is that because batteries were low, I could not even disable the backlight (you press and hold the blue button, and backlight comes on, but since there is not enough juice, about a second later the remote turns off before toggling the backlight to off - catch 22). Swapped out batteries, disabled the backlight, and as a test I put back the original batteries, and they are still working 2 weeks later. So if you don't NEED the backlight on, turn it off. I rarely need it any more, since I am so used to the layout.

Right now, say I turn on the X5 and start watching TV. Then as I am watching, I decide to turn off the monitor, the X5 goes into suspend mode. No matter what you do with the remote you cannot turn on the X5. The only way to turn it back on, is to turn on the monitor. This may be TV/Monitor dependant (depending what the TV does internally to the HDMI port when you turn it off). However same exercise can be done, if you are watching TV and then just unplug the HDMI cable, the player will go into suspend mode. If the player goes into suspend because you turned the monitor/tv off, OR unplugged the HDMI cable, you can not turn the x5 back on (at least not the one I have and the June firmware). I have not tried it yet, to see if I set a scheduled recording, and put the unit into standby (by turning the monitor off), if it will succeed to turn itself back on to actually record [considering you can't turn it on with the remote under this condition]. I will run more tests during the day. And I will test the same on the HD5. I know my 4900 and 4500 do not behave that way (at least not that I recall, but I will retest them also).

@cyrowth quickly checking my setup, I realized that my monitors support DDC/CI instead of HDMI-CEC. It is a little different protocol, which allows you to control your instance over the cable. What option are available is dependent on the model. So the testing I did seems was not impacted by HDMI-CEC since my monitor does not have HDMI-CEC (my mistake) Having said that, I did try to disable the DDC/CI on my monitor (since there is an option). But it made no difference. When I turn off the monitor, the X5 would suspend. However, since I am running a few tests on some boxes (X5 and HD5), I connected an el-cheapo 3-1 HDMI switch to avoid plugging and unplugging. Well, with the switch connected, I can turn off the monitor and the X5 stays on. I suspect that what I am experiencing during my tests has nothing to do with CEC or even DDC/CI. It is probably just matter of detection of termination. When the monitor is turned off, it is probably disabling the termination resistors and as such it not detected as being connected. This triggers the X5 to go into standby. Now, is there a way around that, I have no clue at what level this detection is done (s/w and/or h/w). Only Buzz would be able to confirm if this is a behavior that can be controlled by software. I rarely turn of my monitor manually, so it does not affect me much. When I power off my X5, the monitor itself goes into a "suspend" mode (so I don't manually power it off). So when the X5 needs to wake up to record, it has no issue, since the monitor will just switch to active. I can see however how this may not be the same for every situation.

In some cases, there is a second audio channel. When watching channel full screen, if you press left to get the screen with the Close Captions/Audio/aspect ratio options , do you have anything under Audio, other than Disabled and your primary audio track (stereo or whatever) ? If you do, you can select it. If you don't, then they are permanently on. Maybe contact your provider and let them know that the channel is running/being encoded with the DV audio track instead of the regular one. I know on one of my services there was one channel that would do that often. Wasn't a huge issue, since it was a local channel and I would just select another local channel from the neighbouring city and typically had same programming, but after I notified them, they corrected shortly after. Can't expect the operators to check every one of the 1000s of channels they are steaming on a daily basis.

No we haven't narrowed that down , but considering there have been literally 100s of updates since the release you are running, no one will be spending time to try to debug something unless you at least have the latest version (which are the moment is 5.0.765, updated yesterday). But I installed the xbox app also, and I can tell you that the app is NOT properly designed my Microsloth to work with a TV remote (I know of many apps like this). They give very little love to any non-windows devices. I can scroll around the various selectable option using the dpad, but hitting OK does nothing. BUT.... If I hit the mouse cursor button on the remote, then put the mouse cursor onto the option I want to select and press the OK button (which when in mouse cursor mode - acts like a left mouse click), it works. Buzz cannot fix the issues of poor developers who do not consider the various platforms. I also tested it, but using a regular USB mouse from a PC and had no issues with the mouse to select and left click what I needed. The app is designed for use on Android phones, and Tablets, which would have standard touch input in most cases, so they probably did not even consider a TV remote as input. Considering that, I would be very cautious in pursing the use of these half-@ssed apps. Also, not sure what type of gaming experience you are expecting. Trying to run games on a $150 device designed primarily for video streaming, that were designed to run on a $500 game console with dedicated gaming graphics hardware. GPU power is not even remotely comparable. And don't forget the general purpose CPU on these boxes, vs the very purpose specific ones used on gaming consoles. Keep your expectations in check. 2 days ago, I asked if you can use a regular PC mouse to see if that works any better in the app for you. Did you try it ?

When you say "self powered" do you mean they get their power from the USB connection, or that they have their own external power supply ? Also, when you say it is dismissive, is it because it does not recognize your partitions, or the drive as a whole ? Have you tried going into settings, and and then under storage, and seeing if it sees the drive itself (even thought it may not recognize the partition) ? It may not recognize the formatting on the drive. I'm assuming you formatted the drive on a windows machine ? The fact that it is 6TB, it was initialized as GPT, and not MBR ? And assuming NTFS filesystem if you have 1 large 6TB volume ? Considering the xrs4000 is an older device (running Android 9 if I recall - could be wrong), not sure what built in support it has for GPT vs MBR disks. And also the FAT32/exFAT/NTFS support. And for NTFS, it depends on which version, since it has evolved quite a bit. I rarely use any large disks (anything more than 2TB) on my devices, since all my media is streamed from my NAS with one large 96TB volume. I don't have a 4000, but I do have a 4500 (which is pretty close). And the largest single disk I have are a few 4TB La Cie externally power USB drives, so I can run a few tests later this weekend. Over the years there were many limitations in windows and many linux.android kernels, in regards to max disk sizes they supported, max partition sizes they supported (ie: 2TB classis limit), and even partition types/version they supported. So obviously if the drives are good, you are surely running into one of these limitations.

From the LiveTV screen (when watching TV), press the MENU button on the remote (will open side menu), and there is a version number at the bottom of it. That is what we need.

What version of BuzzTV are you running (in LiveTV, hit the menu button and should be at the bottom). With WiFi, for me it used to take 30 to 45 seconds before searching and connecting again. With Ethernet it was 5 to 10 seconds at most. This can vary depending on WiFi access points, and DHCP server from router. However at one point I decided that I was better of setting it to shutdown instead, so that way I knew that every time I powered on, it was a clean boot. The extra minute or 2 would not make a difference anyhow.

Can you just connect a mouse to the unit temporarily to see if you can use that

Would help if you post WHAT box model you are using, and the version of BUZZTV 5 which you have also (menu button, and it is on the bottom).

S/PDIF ? That would be the optical output.. And the Optical output for sure does NOT support ATMOS. Are you using the optical output ? Digital optical doesn’t support Dolby Atmos because it can’t transmit the Dolby Digital Plus or Dolby TrueHD audio codecs (both of which can contain Dolby Atmos audio). "As a matter of fact, the optical cable can process either 2 channels of uncompressed pulse code modulation (PCM) audio or up to 5.1 channels of compressed audio. In addition, the 5.1 channels of audio support are either via the Dolby Digital or the DTS Digital Surround audio codecs. Unfortunately, both of these codecs do not support Dolby Atmos." You should probably turn S/PDIF off, and allow it to auto send everything over HDMI ARC.

You mention you are using VLC, I am assuming when you say it is "enabled" you mean you have enabled "Digital audio output (passthrough)" is also enabled on VLC ? Doesn't take much for ATMOS to not work. Actually we say that ATMOS is supported passthrough only. Well this pretty much removes netflix from the list of apps which will ever be able to play ATMOS on "most" android boxes (with few exceptions. Netflix for some dumb reason has decided that it "requires that playback devices be capable of decoding Dolby Atmos natively, instead of simply being able to pass through Dolby Atmos to an Atmos-capable soundbar or A/V receiver.". There is a nice article on digitaltrends, which gives a nice details explanation and examples on what is needed, and when Atmos can fail (which in some cases is quite unexpected). https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/dolby-atmos-sound/ What is your setup ? TV, soundbar, receiver, etc. ? How are you sending your stream to your TV ? Are you going from buzz->TV->audio equipment ? of buzz->audio equipment-> passthrough to TV ? TV have HDMI ARC or eARC ? There are compatibility issues in some situations (read the HDMI section in the article above.

Obviously it also depends on your source. As far as I know, even services like Netflix will only encode Dolby atmos on UltraHD streams, and even that is NOT on all streams. Most IPTV services (which is what these devices specialize with), do not include Dolby Atmos in the re-encoded streams, even if some had Atmos at source.

I know this was an issue with many Hulu users back in January of this year when Nvidia rolled out Android 11 on the nvidia shield. They had many compatibility issues with Android 11. Quite possibly they have not ironed out all of the issues. Many users also reported similar issues when google deployed Android 11 on the pixel 3 older device Sounds like they are not giving much love to their Android app. Kind of scary to see how common this issue is amongst Android users.

Is your player connected WiFi or wired ? If you are WiFi, would you have the option to hardwire it for testing ? Not sure of your geographical location, but are you running VPN for Hulu (depending on your location obviously) ? If so, are you running the VPN on the box, or at the router level ? If you are running it on the box, are you sure it is not the VPN client that is causing the issue ? Oh ya, forgot to add.. Do you have a USB stick or SD card installed ? If so, did you format it as portable storage or as internal memory ? If you installed it as internal memory, the App may be installed on the external media which some apps really don't like.

True.. Depending on how many apps you have installed and how many other recording, if you are using only internal storage, there may be a fiesystem full issue FAT32 is the reason for the 4GB limit per file (if using external portable storage). However I have a 64GB stick which I formatted on my windows PC which defaults to exFAT, which does NOT have the 4GB limit. And my X5 is perfectly happy with that stick as removable storage. Also, not sure if the PVR module would fail after 4GB, or would it just create a multis-egmented recording (ie: over multiple files) ? I have not tried to do a large recording, but unless there is some artificial hardcoded limit, it will not be the filesystem which will restrict the file size to 4GB if you are using exFAT. I know recently I had copied 9GB+ movie files onto USB sticks to play on my box using MXplayer. Now if you go to the older boxes (using Android 9 or lower), I have not tested exFAT on those, since I typically stream most media from my NAS. I can run some tests on my 4500 tomorrow, and test that out if the 4GB limit is an issue - by just recording some super long show (but doubt that is the issue here unless they are using a SUPER high bitrate stream).

Terry, one potential issues I see with your method is the implication of Tivimate in this whole equation. The way the recording probably works is using one of the basic kernel level signals (SIGALRM, etc...) to wake up the device and then trigger the recording. The fact that Tivimate also has recording options (even though you are not using them), I have no clue how it handles, initializes or masks any of these signals. In theory inter-process signals should not affect each other, but if you will be doing the test next time, stay within the buzzTV 5, and don't use tivimate for now. I obviously have not coded any of these pieces of software, so not 100% sure how they each implement these features, but when signals, alarms, timers ,etc.. are involved, when you debug, try to involve the least number of variables and work your way up.

The permission thing should only be happen the "first" time you ever do it. After that it should work as expected. IS it happening ALL the the time, or did you just test it once and post ? Do you have one button recording enabled ? When you schedule a recording, are you doing that manually, or selecting a show through the EPG ? While in the EPG, you can go to a show in the future, and hit OK, and it ill popup a menu which allows you to set a reminder, or schedule a recording. PS: Since many shows are delayed by a minute or 2, I strongly recommend people enable the "Extra recording time" option in the PVR options. Something like 3 to 5 minutes would be perfect, that way, your show does not get cut 1 or 2 minutes before it is finished

This forum is just for the STB boxes. We do not mention or promote any specific services. On one of my servers, I know that some channels do support it. But I rarely turn it on, so can't tell you how many of the 1000s of channel support it