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Emporium

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Posts posted by Emporium

  1. Could we connect a mouse to this box, and would it be functional ?   

    If so, then it might eventually be nice to have some other VPN clients (I use Windscribe myself).  Can use a mouse to easily configure it, with auto connect at boot, spilt tunnels or whatever else user wants.  And at least this way, if need to change VPN destination server it is easier to go through the client instead of generating new OpenVPN certs and importing them, etc..  

    Not an issue for me, since I do have a few VPN connections direct on my router, and I use different routing policies to route certain devices through the preferred VPN tunnel.  But that is not the typical user 🙂

     

     

  2. First of all, your assumption that it is the buzz box problem is far from conclusive.  You missed one VERY critical fact.  The Nvidia shield is NOT running Android 13.  Last I checked, it was still running Android 11.  This is not a negligible difference.  And since not many media boxes are running Android 13, it is quite likely that the software in question has never been tested on Android 13.

    Tivimate is  3rd party software and this is a Buzz forum, so not sure you'll get much help.  This sounds more like a Tivimate issue or Server issue.

    You are obviously not the first person to get this issue:

    https://www.reddit.com/r/TiviMate/comments/xrl2te/error_456/?rdt=47033

    Buying a Buzz box, and then using a 3rd party app for IPTV is kind of a waste.  As Ryu said, try using BuzzTV 6 or BuzzTV 5.

     

    • Like 4
  3. The TV is not THAT old (2017) 🙂  My main TV in the living room is a 25yr old 55" Sharp Aquos.  Now that is older 🙂  And the one in my kitchen is an even older Audiovox with no HDMI input (just component).

    Not in front of the X5 SS box right now, but did you enable the HDMI CEC options on the box to be able to control TV volume ?  

    I am not understanding your 3rd paragraph.  You say your headphones are connected to the TV.  Are they connected using BT, or the side jack (wired) ?  For a headphone point of view, I don't see the difference of the Buzz box being at "enable max volume" and then controlling the volume from the TV.  Or Putting TV volume at 60-70%, and then disabling the "force max volume" on the buzz box, and allowing the buzz box to control the volume.  Either way, it is still the combination of the 2 volumes that would come out of the TV speakers or headphones.

    If the headphones are BT, you could also technically pair them to the Buzz box.  I do it all the time with my 4900 that I have in my bedroom.  And when I turn the headphones on (usually at night when the wife goes to sleep), as soon as they par, the volume is redirected from the speakers to the headphones.

    BTW: Are you using a soundbar by any chance ?  Just curious, since only 1 of the HDMI ports I believe supports ARC.  But I do believe all the ports support CEC.

     

     

     

    • Like 2

    Apps

    Had you installed a USB key or MicroSD card and format it as "internal storage" ?

    If formatted as internal storage, then the OS will take the liberty of installing apps on this storage when it can.  But, downside is that if you remove it, or if it fails, you will probably need to reset your box ,since it will be a mess with all sorts of stuff missing.  All storage on the box should preferably be formatted as "removable storage" to avoid that sitution.

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. 6 minutes ago, George LaBine said:

    I use the Samsung T7 series ssd storage which has a hight transfer rate use 500 gb size.  It works good on my Nvidia Shield Tv Pro.  It should work one this device also.

    https://www.samsung.com/ca/memory-storage/all-memory-storage/?portable-ssd+1tb

    It's an SSD, so it should not require as much current, so it should work.  Have you tried it on a P6 ?  The last firmware also fixed a lot of the exFAT filesystem issues.

  5. There is probably not enough power to spin up the mechanical drive from the USB ports.

    I have a few similar drives (Seagate and WD passports) and in some cases using a USB-A to USB-C adapter and plugging into the USB-C port instead provided a little more power and it worked.  In other cases, I had to use a cable similar to the one below, to get power from 2 USB ports to get it to spin up.  And in one case (older drive), no matter what I did, it would not spin up properly.

    https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FGDWM7B

    For these devices, since they are stationary, I typically just get larger USB drives that have their own external power supply.  Sure they are not portable, but in this case, I did not care.  And I recently added a small NVMe into the unit, which I recovered from some old laptops.

    Don't know what type of cable/connector your drive has, but instead of an adapter cable, you can also just get another cable which has the 2 pigtails.  One for data/power and the other one for just power.  These used to be quite common in drives, a while back when most laptops did not have enough juice available from the USB ports.

    https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N1J0KU2

     

    • Like 1
  6. So is it an XR4000 or a Classic ?

    It's one of the few boxes I don't have, but I'd be very surprised if the XR4000 has a 2024 firmware (not saying impossible, but very unlikely).

     

  7. The only time I have seen that is when the internet connection is bad, and the stream keeps dropping, so the box tries to reconnect.  And some servers are incredibly slow at killing idle connections so it looks like multiple connection when in reality most of those connection are disconnected.

    I did find however that if you force your stream type to "TS" instead of auto or HLS. it seems to not keep the connection as persistent.

     

     

    • Like 3
  8. Just now, Mark04276 said:

    In my case I don't have any worries about losing the data on the NVME drive. I actually have all these files on my qnap server and also another on a USB drive. Backups are very important no matter what device you have. My qnap actually got hit with that 7 zip ransomware and locked me out of all my pictures but since I had the backup on my USB drive, it didn't affect me other than time to reset the Qnap. 

    Thanks for the info and advice. Will be looking forward for that OTA. 

    Don't need to remind me of backups.  I'm a backupaholic 🙂  I have a few 5 bay and 8 bay synology units.  And I also have 2x 12 bay rackmount RS2418+ units as my main units.  The main unit has most of my files and is the one forward facing to my internal network and family can see and use.  The second unit, is not on the actual network.  It has been configured as a Hypervault destination, and it can ONLY be seen from the main NAS using the hypervault API.  That way even if the first unit get's attacked by any ransomware that may originate on some other device on the network, it can't see the hypervault server.

    The Main NAS backs up all it's filesystems weekly onto this second NAS (which it can only see via a direct ethernet connection - no switch).  And there is at least a 6 month retention configured.   And any super personal/critical files, are backed up remotely to my old Synology 5 bay which I have located at mom's house (so I have my offsite backup).

    So I fully understand about the backups... lol

     

     

  9. BTW, there is a new firmware coming very soon, which will address many issues with exFAT drives.  And from some testing I did, at least for USB drives, any drives 16GB or smaller will get formatted by default in FAT32 format.  Anything lager will get format as exFAT which will overcome the 4GB file size limitation (which is an FAT32 filesystem limitation and not a Buzz limitation).  And they also greatly improved the exFAT detection/recognition which was an issue.

    So don't go overboard just yet on filling up the NVMe drive.  Wait till the next update, so you can then reformat it, and it should hopefully address the issues.

    But one thing for sure, stay with removable storage.   Formatting as internal is just a recipe for disaster the day it gets corrupted or crashes.

     

     

     

  10. 6 hours ago, dishuser said:

    the classic never had 20220624 firmware

    You are correct, No it didn't. Butt my friends classic did hang at buzz logo after taking the last update and rebooting.  All seemed to go smooth, but after reboot, it would boot, go through buzz animated boot logo sequence, then get stuck at a buzz logo, and hang there.  No matter how long you kept it there, it would not go further.  Had to do a hard reset and it was fine afterwards.

    I just don't want to assume that ALL bugged X5 are because of the 20220624 firmware.  Costs nothing but time to do a hard reset first and wait 15 or 20 minutes, before trying to flash.    IF anything, probably better to flash after having done a hard reset 🙂

     

     

  11. 36 minutes ago, Elie said:

    Hello We would like to see and it is nice to ad for buzztv 6 EPG server because it is no option in buzztv6 to change EPG to server only in buzztv 5 

    thanks

    As mentioned in the other thread:

    Quote

    The P6 currently uses Server EPG on XC Username and Password only
    We will add XML support soon

    And confirmed 3 posts below that again: "Buzz 6 only uses Server EPG right now

    It is XML that is not there and will be added.

    • Like 2
  12. 46 minutes ago, dishuser said:

    they're probably going to need to load the 3 files onto an sd card

    or send mac to cs@buzztv.com

    Not necessarily.  I had my friends Classic which had the exact same issue 2 weeks ago.  She gave it to me at the office, I brought it home, did a hard reset, and it came back perfectly and did not need to flash anything.  Sure, I reconfigured her servers and reinstalled some apps afterwards, but after reset, the update seemed to have been installed.  Probably some glitch/compatibility with some boot sequence/script.

    I think if they try to flash with the old files, they may cause a bigger problem and then have no choice but to send it in.

    t this point, I think a hard reset and some patience it what it takes (it did take a little time to completely load after the reset, and sometimes it seemed like there was no hope, but it did eventually complete after some what appeared to be "lifelessness" 🙂

    Nothing to lose to try a hard reset and give it some time.

     

     

    • Like 1
  13. I assume you mean X5 and not z5.

    If you can't get it to work, then you may have to do a hard reset and start from scratch.  See  posts above your post for the link to the procedure for a hard reset.

     

     

    • Like 1
  14. 4 minutes ago, Elie said:

    I am using xc on buzztv6 and it was working fine now is not I try it on formuler it is working and my phone it is Somthing I don't understand if some one can help me please 

    thanks

    Like allaboutbuzz tried to explain.  You need to change the EPG from XML to Server.  You can either do that from the SERVER screen, if you edit the server there is are 3 options at the bottom, one of them is for EPG Source.  Change it from XML to SERVER.   Otherwise you can do it directly from LiveTV, you can press MENU->SETTTINGS-CONFIGURATION and scroll down to GUIDE/EPG settings, and the first option is EPG Source.  Change it to SERVER instead of XML.

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  15. When you say buzzTV 5 it works well, is it buzztv5 on the P6, or on another box ?

    When you are on the P6, did you check to see if the date/time is correct ?  If that is not correct it will throw EPG way off.

     

     

    • Like 2
  16. Could be a chipset compatibility issue between the router and the device.  Mesh devices can also be very temperamental with some devices, especially when you find yourself between 2 extenders and the extenders try to hand off from one to the other since they detect different signal strengths.

     

  17. This topic should have been under the X5 section.  This is the section for BuzzTV 5 which is the software running on the box.

    If your router uses only a single SSID for both 2.4 and 5Ghz bands, check to see if there is a way to split it.  Companies call it different things, in some cases "band steering".  That way the router tries to steer the connection to the best option, but this can also cause issue with some devices.  Splitting it, you will have 2 different WiFi SSID, one for 2.4Gh and another for 5Ghz.  5Ghz is typically faster, but shorter range.  2.4Ghz is slower, but longer range, and very often more stable.

    What is your power key definition set to ?  suspend, or shutdown ?  Do yourself a favor and switch it to shutdown.  Sure it takes an extra 30 seconds to boot, but you know you have a clean boot every time.  suspend is not worth the potential headaches and instabilities cased by misbehaving drivers.

     

    • Like 1
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